Houston Chronicle Sunday

JUNGLE LUXURY

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3. RWANDA Why go now: The opening of Wilderness Safaris’ intimate Bisate Lodge next to Volcanoes National Park in June 2017 (the start of the dry season) marks a new phase in gorilla tourism, an important source of income for the country whose painful history of genocide still resonates. Wilderness’ focus on local culture, conservati­on and community building benefits primates and people alike, while Kigali provides a safe environmen­t to explore urban Rwanda. Signature experience: Encounteri­ng mountain gorillas on one of the strictly limited permitted treks in the misty forest is unforgetta­ble — but make time for a trek to see the endangered golden monkey, too. The 64-acre Bisate Lodge also will invite its guests to plant trees in an effort to expand the animals’ habitat and, ultimately, the park’s boundaries. Local flavor: After visiting the powerful Kigali Genocide Memorial, take the Nyamirambo Women’s Center walking tour through its lively neighborho­od or drop into a milk cafe. At Bisate, meet vegetable growers, shop the local market with the chef or partake in Rwandan coffee and tea tastings on the deck. How to get there: Fly nonstop to Kigali from Brussels and other European cities or Johannesbu­rg; Volcanoes National Park is about a two-hour drive from Kigali. It’s best to book through an experience­d safari agency. Where to stay: Hotel de Mille Collines, of “Hotel Rwanda” fame, provides hilltop views in a garden setting (from $119, hotels.com). Bisate Lodge’s six sumptuous, eco-friendly villas can accommodat­e just 12 guests (from $1,100 per person), including gourmet meals and most activities; wilderness-safaris.com/ camps/bisate-lodge.

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