Tour Houston’s barbecue history
Remarkably, Houston is becoming a destination for Texas barbecue tourists, much like Lockhart and Austin. And I am frequently asked, “If I have a couple of days, where are the best places to go?”
The key word here is “best.” Everyone wants the best, which often translates to the trendiest or most popular. And I dutifully tell them the latest-and-greatest places to partake of Houston’s glorious smoked-meat culture.
But then I shift the conversation and say, “You know, Houston has a long history of barbecue. Would you like to visit some historical barbecue joints?”
This is usually met with a quizzical look and the response, “Well, maybe, if we have time …”
So for those out-oftowners looking for something a bit different, here’s a tour of historical Houston barbecue. In many cases, it’s also Houston’s best barbecue.
Start south of downtown in Third Ward. Ray’s BBQ Shack serves the East Texas-style barbecue for which Houston is known. East Texas style focuses more on pork dishes such as spareribs, and incorporates spices and ingredients from the Cajun cooking traditions of nearby Louisiana.
Growing up, pitmaster Ray Busch frequented historical barbecue joints such as Green’s and Lott’s. He learned how to cook from Rivers Falls, a legendary barbecue man from the neighborhood.
Next, head north to the East End and visit
Lenox Bar-B-Q (open 11 a.m.-2 p.m. weekdays). Lenox is one of the oldest operating barbecue joints in the city. In the 1950s, original owner Leonard McNeill used a flair for salesmanship to bring Houston barbecue to the masses.
Today’s Lenox is mostly a take-out joint, but the staff will find you a table and a place to sit if you’d like to eat there. Ask current owner Erik Mrok for a tour of the 30-year-old pits that are still cranking out smoked meats.
Then venture west to Pizzitola’s Bar-B-Cue. Opened as Shepherd Drive Barbecue in the 1940s by John and Lela Davis, this is the oldest operating barbecue joint in Houston. Now owned by longtime customer Jerry Pizzitola, the Davis family — I call them the “first family of Houston barbecue” — still dine here on a regular basis.
Next stop is Goode Co. Barbeque on Kirby. Jim Goode was one of the first pitmasters to bring Central Texas-style barbecue to Houston, in 1977. It’s open for dinner, so it
makes a great choice for the last stop of the day.
On Day 2, drive over to Triple J’s Smokehouse. Much like Ray’s BBQ Shack, Triple J’s is a bastion of Houston’s own indigenous East Texas style of barbecue. Don’t miss the smoked boudin.
North on Interstate 45, head for the historical Acres Homes
neighborhood. Pay a visit to Byron Johnson at Byron’s Gourmet BarB-Que. Johnson is one of the last pitmasters in Houston to make “juicy links,” a Southeast Texas barbecue delicacy.
A few blocks away is Burns Original BBQ. Starting in the 1970s, Roy Burns began selling barbecue from a trailer in
parking lots on weekends. Over the years, he built his business into an Acres Homes institution with a permanent location on De Priest. The elder Burns passed away in 2009, and now his sons and grandsons keep the tradition alive. Make Southern Q
BBQ & Catering (open for dinner) your last stop on the tour. Southern Q is remarkable in that the owners — Steve and Sherice Garner — represent a new generation of pitmasters who are committed to continuing the tradition of Houston’s East Texas-style barbecue. Don’t miss the smoked turkey legs, served only on the weekends.
As always, do your research first before heading out. Some places are open only certain days of the week, others are open only for lunch. It’s always a good idea to call ahead.