Houston Chronicle Sunday

Raising a glass to Texas wineries

Looking to drink in the bold taste of the state? Start by visiting these 10 Hill Country spots

- By Emily Spicer espicer@express-news.net Twitter: @Spiced1. Instagram: @spiceoflif­e_en.

TEXAS HILL COUNTRY — For the least few years, Texas wine has started to rise in national profile, in no small part because it’s making better wine than ever. The state has set itself apart from other wine regions by experiment­ing with and planting varietals well suited to the heat and drought cycles here. Mediterran­ean originated similar These climates. often from are varietals areas These with aren’t that your merlots common or cabernet chardonnay­s, sauvignons. Think temperanil­lo, albariño, tannat and sangiovese. Texas has over 4,000 acres of producing vineyard farmland and around 300 wineries. Here are 10 of the best near San Antonio, along U.S. 290 from Comfort to the Dripping Springs/Driftwood area.

BEST: Duchman Family Winery

Specialtie­s: Vermentino and montepulci­ano Walking up to the Duchman winery is like crossing into a kind of family oasis, with a big grassy yard, tree-shaded tables, corn hole and Jenga to keep the kids playing while their folks take in some of the best wine the state has to offer. Owners Drs. Stan and Lisa Duchman opened their Italianate villa-style winery in 2004 based on their love of Old World-style Italian wines. The grapes of Italy grow especially well in the wine-growing regions of Texas, so Duchman sources only Texas grapes of Italian varietals. terroir flavors, The twist wines producing to here classic, give a rich, Old a Texas fruity World montepulci­ano that you’ll want to keep drinking long after you’ve finished your lamb chops, and a high-acid vermentino with just enough citrus and floral notes to make it a worthy sipper all summer long. Info: 13308 FM 150 W., Driftwood; 512-858-1470; duchmanwin­ery.com

Hilmy Cellars

Specialtie­s: Red and white blends, muscat Hilmy’s vineyard was planted in 2009 with 3,000 sangiovese vines. Less than a decade later, it’s already producing some fascinatin­g creations. The muscat is aged to be off-dry, producing a lighter version of the almost syrupy sweet standard. The 2015 Doo.Zwa.Zo (phonetical­ly “two birds” in French) is a playful blend of viognier and chenin blanc producing a creamy, green and minerally white beautifull­y balanced by stone fruit. And the malbec is all gorgeous berry tamed by French oak. has The an beautiful, extensive modern outdoor winery patio overlookin­g the vineyard and natural farm manned by two hard-working Great Pyrenees dogs who keep the deer away and by a flock of guinea fowl who gobble up the bugs. Info: 12346 E. U.S. 290, Fredericks­burg; 830-644-2482; hilmywine.com

Inwood Estates Vineyards

Specialtie­s: Tempranill­o, cabernet sauvignon, blends urban Although myth, it this sounds whole like an enterprise started in 1981 with vineyards just outside Dallas. Yes, you read that right. It was one of the first vineyards in Texas and one devoted to the study of what varietals were best suited to the state and produced the best wine. Fast-forward almost four decades, and the Dallas vineyards are still a thing, though grapes from around the state Texas are wines used, from and owner the good and winemaker Dan Gatlin are going strong. The reds stand out here, especially the blends. The winery and tasting room was built in 2005 and features a small bistro and a large patio. Info: 10303 E. U.S. 290, Fredericks­burg; 830-997-2304; inwoodwine­s.com

Kuhlman Cellars

blends Specialtie­s: Calcaria Proprietar­y and Barranca This is one of the Hill Country’s most memorable tasting experience­s, as each glass is paired with a small bite created by chef Chris Cook, who’s worked at a variety of top San Antonio hotels and restaurant­s. Chris and Jennifer Cobb opened Kuhlman Cellars in October 2014, showcasing wines, mostly Texas blends in a southern French style, that shine with food. Tastings are held in the actual cellar, where the chilled air (there are blankets if you get cold) is perfumed with aging wine. The property is gorgeous, with a light-filled shop and rooftop seating space where you can while away an afternoon sipping vino and taking in the expansive views. Info: 18421 E. U.S. 290, Stonewall; 512-920-2675; kuhlmancel­lars.com

Lewis Wines

and Specialtie­s: tempranill­o Blanc du bois A teeny tasting room, a huge covered deck, a friendly, energetic coonhound mix named Buddy and a lot of good wine poured by folks who clearly love what they do. and Native Duncan Texans McNabb, Doug Lewis co-owners and winemakers at Lewis Wines, began working together at Pedernales Cellars in 2009. They founded Lewis Wines in 2010, with a focus on varietals mostly from from Southern France, Spain and Portugal. The estate vineyard was planted in 2014. unusually The wines light include and creamy an chenin blanc, a slightly effervesce­nt vinho verde-style blanc du bois and verdelho blend and a classicall­y Old World-style tempranill­o with just a hint of vanilla. Info: 3209 W. U.S. 290, Johnson City; 512-987-0660; lewiswines.com

Lost Draw Cellars

white Specialtie­s: This blend, charmingly cinsault, Gemütlichk­eit barnlike rosé Fredericks­burg winery celebrates the grapes of the Texas High Plains around Lubbock, often overlooked varietals more commonly used for blending. The tasting room is located on what used to be co-founder and managing partner Troy Ottmers’ family oil business. Cinsault is one of the highlights here. In Lost Draw’s hands, this red blending grape is aged in concrete and bottled unfiltered to produce a light red with hints of smoke and pepper. The Gemütlichk­eit (German for a cheerful, cozy situation, loosely) white blends various grapes, depending on the vintage, including picpoul blanc, marsanne, grenache blanc, viognier and roussanne. An expansive crushed granite patio has a stage for live music, and small bites are available for tastings upon request. Info: 113 E. Park St., Fredericks­burg; 830-992-3251; lostdrawce­llars.com

Pedernales Cellars

viognier Specialtie­s: The Stonewall Tempranill­o, winery, led by winemaker David Kuhlken, his sister Julie Kuhlken and her husband, Fredrik Osterberg, specialize­s in Spanish and Rhône-style wine with grapes from Texas. It’s long been a Hill Country favorite. perfect Its standout for Texas viognier summers, is with refreshing lemon acidity balanced by stone fruit and a touch of honey. It also produces noteworthy tempranill­o and some of the richer red blends to be found in the region. The winery itself is welcoming, with a large deck perfect for setting up a picnic with a bottle of wine while you take in the views and Hill Country breezes. Info: 2916 Upper Albert Road, Stonewall; 830-644-2037; pedernales­cellars.com

Pontotoc Vineyard

Specialtie­s: Tempranill­o Location, location, location. Pontotoc Vineyard celebrates all things Hill Country by sourcing all its grapes from the region, naming each bottle after a Hill Country landmark and setting the tasting room in a classicall­y Hill Country stone cottage in downtown Fredericks­burg, with a large stone-walled courtyard weingarten. Attorney Carl Money, a fifth-generation Texas farmer, and his wife, Frances, founded Pontotoc Vineyard in the tiny town of Pontotoc in Mason County. The pair purchased the entire downtown site of the town and planted a 5-acre estate vineyard of tempranill­o grapes. Well-known Texas winemaker Don Pullum makes the wine. Info: 320 W. Main St., Fredericks­burg; 512-658-0023; pontotocvi­neyard.com

Wedding Oak Winery

tempranill­o Specialtie­s: Albariño, Mike and Lynn McHenry planted their Cherokee Vineyard in 2000 just south of San Saba, opening Wedding Oak Winery in the historic heart of San Saba. They tagged Penny Adams, the first woman wine master in Texas, as winemaker. The tasting room in Fredericks­burg is surrounded by lush greenery, as it’s tucked into the back of Wildseed Farms. Wedding Oak produces several standout and award-winning whites and white blends perfect for sipping through the Texas summer. Info: 100 Legacy Drive at Wildseed Farms, Fredericks­burg; 830-997-2510; weddingoak­winery.com

William Chris Vineyards

Enchanté Specialtie­s: red blend Mourvèdre, Partners William Blackmon and Chris Brundrett opened the first William Chris Vineyards tasting room in 2010 in a small restored Texas farmhouse on their Hye property. A blend of corrugated metal and modern lines, the tasting room has a large deck surrounded by country views. Bordeaux-style William Chris blend started of with a cabernet, merlot and petite verdot called Enchanté, which continues to go strong. Mary Ruth, named after Blackmon’s mother, is a blend of blanc du bois, orange muscat and white muscat with balanced floral notes and acidity. It is one of William Chris’ most popular wines. Info: 10352 E. U.S. 290, Hye; 830-998-7654; williamchr­iswines.com

 ?? Emily Spicer / San Antonio Express-News ?? The tasting room at Duchman Family Winery in Driftwood
Emily Spicer / San Antonio Express-News The tasting room at Duchman Family Winery in Driftwood
 ??  ?? The Wedding Oak Winery tasting room in Fredericks­burg Emily Spicer / San Antonio Express-News
The Wedding Oak Winery tasting room in Fredericks­burg Emily Spicer / San Antonio Express-News
 ??  ?? The first William Chris Vineyards tasting room opened in 2010 in a restored Texas farmhouse in Hye. Emily Spicer / San Antonio Express-News
The first William Chris Vineyards tasting room opened in 2010 in a restored Texas farmhouse in Hye. Emily Spicer / San Antonio Express-News

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