Passion for Periwinkle
Sommeliers raise funds for camp for kids with life-threatening illnesses
So much of the good stuff in Sean Beck’s life traces back to his early childhood in rural Iowa, where he had the privilege of taking for granted, he recalls, “fresh eggs, fresh meat and fresh produce.”
It gave Beck his appreciation for good food, and he eventually segued into pairing it with fine wines and, eventually, a career in serving the same. Then, about 13 years ago, along came the Iron Sommelier competition, a fun event created for those who sell wine in Houston restaurants or private clubs to show off their knowledge, passion and, most importantly, to help raise money for the Periwinkle Foundation.
The personable Beck, who had become the wine buyer and wine-list curator for Backstreet Cafe, was among the first to sign up. He proved to be good at it — so good, in fact, that he won the first three competitions, spread over six years, helping make the event successful enough that it began to be held annually and had to move to a larger venue, now The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa. Along the way, he acquired more than a cursory interest in what Periwinkle does with the cash the festive Iron Somm evening brings in.
The total for 2018 was a record $320,000, and $2.3 million has been raised since 2005. Tickets, priced at $250, sold out quickly for the competition on Nov. 8. So did the hefty underwriter sponsorships. And local sommeliers now clamor to be in the mix, each picking three themed wines, then pitching himself or herself as the smartest wine person in the room. Many bring elaborate photo presentations. Some have gone so far as to have vineyard soil samples shipped in.
Other wine professionals volunteer their time to do the judging, while attending guests get to pick the “People’s Choice” champion.
Having “retired” undefeated, Beck coordinates the competition rather than competing. The father of a young child himself, he has also become an active participant in the Periwinkle camps that let children who are battling cancer and other serious diseases escape their hospital rooms and get out in the fresh air, where they can be normal kids. Importantly, siblings are welcome, too. Sickness is, of course, always a shared burden in families.
Angie Chang’s half-brother Andrew is a cancer survivor and former Periwinkle camper. She remembers attending camps with him — she was 13 when he was diagnosed at the age of 3 — and seeing how he profited from the experience. Fittingly, Chang, a veteran of the Houston wine scene herself, has become a manager/floor sommelier for Beck at Backstreet Cafe. And while working at Yauatcha last year, she earned 2017 Iron Sommelier runner-up honors.
The Periwinkle Foundation develops and provides programs that positively change the lives of children and young adults who are challenged by cancer and other life-threatening illnesses and are cared for at at Texas Children’s Cancer Center and Hematology Centers.
“No matter what Periwinkle would ever ask me to do, I’ll do,” Chang said. “They were very impactful on Andrew’s recovery, on his life. There are many good memories from those camps.”
Fully recovered from his childhood ordeal, he’s working in the restaurant business, as well.
“In Iowa,” Beck recalled, “I was able to grow up in the outdoors, doing all the crazy stuff kids do — climbing trees, playing games, being a Boy Scout. I’ve got wonderful memories of all that, so I can imagine what it must be like for these sick children, who have spent a considerable amount of their young lives in hospitals, being tested, being poked and prodded, to experience the unbridled joy of feeling like an actual kid for a week.
“They get to bond with other kids dealing with the same things they are, and not have to be identified as being strange or different because of what they’re going through. I find the children to be just like me. They’re enthusiastic, unbridled, and they don’t censor themselves. Being able to do something that benefits them and is also tied to wine, there’s no downside. It’s fantastic.”
The signature program for more than 30 years has been Camp Periwinkle, a weeklong adventure held at the Camp For All Facility in Burton, near Brenham. Activities include swimming, horseback riding, archery, arts and crafts, nature discovery, fishing, swimming and a variety of sports. On Friday during the camp, Beck pitches in as the “Sundae Sommelier” — subbing a wide variety of ice creams for wine varietals.
“It’s the best day,” he said. “You’ll get to see every kid. You’ll see survivors you knew from years ago and their families. The doctors and nurses working the event are such amazing, sweet people. The restaurant business is hard and it’s easy to get jaded.”
Camp Periwinkle quickly un-jades him.
“It’s amazing for their psyches,” Beck said. “But I’ll be honest. It’s a selfish thing, too. It feels good. I get a huge kick out of being there.”