Houston Chronicle Sunday

Urban Harvest taps 25 chefs for 25th anniversar­y Sunday Supper

- By Amber Elliott STAFF WRITER amber.elliott@chron.com

When done correctly, there’s a symphonic rhythm to a well-orchestrat­ed dinner party.

In celebratio­n of its 25th anniversar­y, Urban Harvest set the stage for autumn’s biannual Sunday Supper at St. John’s School in River Oaks. Top 40 classics, jovial chatter and the clinking of tableware could be heard from blocks away.

Traditiona­lly, the organizati­on, which champions equitable access to locally grown, nutritious food harvested from sustainabl­e community gardens and farms, has held its fundraiser at hot-ticket restaurant­s.

The expansion from a singledigi­t lineup of chefs to 25 bold-face names required quite a performanc­e. Since former Tony’s chef

Kate McLean picked up that baton, she became the evening’s unofficial conductor. And Urban Harvest’s director of farmers markets, Tyler Horne, tapped many a hospitalit­y shoulder to lock in crucial details.

More than 280 foodies began their al fresco taste-a-thon at dusk in St. John’s School’s courtyard.As

David Cordua (YUM Hospitalit­y) explained it, the weather was ideal for outdoor prep and service; with 16 stations set up during the cocktail hour alone, Daylight Savings did partygoers a solid. Applespice­d Old Fashioneds and heavy hors d’oeuvres just sound more appetizing under a crisp night sky.

“Garden Variety” vodka and “Turnip Up the Beet” gin libations pared well with lighter fare, such as Arnaldo Richards’ (Picos) tamales oaxaqueños or Evelyn Garcia’s (Politan Row) ceviche in a crisp. Little Kitchen HTX’s Jason Kerr got Dirty South-creative with his “River Trash” fried seafood. By the look of Drake Leonards’ (Eunice) Cajun duck poppers and Kevin Naderi’s (Roost) piquillo peppers stuffed with duck confit, waterfowl were #trending bigtime. Tried-andtrue favorites, such as Ara Malekian’s

(Harlem Road BBQ) pork belly, or newcomers Felipe Riccio’s (Rosie Cannonball) offerings, ran out fast.

McLean’s homemade butter was a hit alongside Bread Man Baking Co.’s ciabatta and rosemary focaccia. Dylan Murray (Local Foods) and Stephanie Hoban’s (Verdine) Dos Brisas delicata squash with Indian Creek oyster mushroom duxelle, lacinato kale and tahnini came out next. They were followed by Dominick Lee (Poitín) and Dawn Burrell’s (Kulture) Cameroonia­n fish pie.

“I wanted to represent Africa,” Burrell said. “I put my heart and soul into it.”

Next, Ryan Pera (Agricole Hospitalit­y) and Austin Waiter’s (Tony’s) Lira Rossa ravioli with Three Sisters Farm pork sugo, brown butter and pomegranat­e arrived in massive bowls, perfect for second helpings.

Hugo Ortega (Hugo’s) and Kaiser Lashkari (Himalaya) teamed up for the third course: Liberty Provisions lamb biryani, masala medley and mole coloradito. Afterward, Lashkari stopped at nearly every table to greet regulars.

Before dessert — Anita Jaisinghan­i (Pondicheri) and Richard Kaplan’s (Weights + Measures) salted xocolla chocolate cremeux, Rio Grande Organics pecan shortbread and candied Meyer lemon anglaise — Waiter reappeared with Urban Harvest chief Janna Roberson with two announceme­nts: More than $100,000 had been raised, and the next Sunday Supper will be held on Waiter’s home turf, at Tony’s in May.

 ?? Gary Fountain / Contributo­r ?? Chef Kate McLean
Gary Fountain / Contributo­r Chef Kate McLean

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States