Houston Chronicle Sunday

Meat producers fight image of polluters

As vegan burgers steal more market share, the beef industry touts ways it’s reducing greenhouse emissions, helping environmen­t

- By Lydia Mulvany and Isis Almeida

The American beef industry, wary of the vegan-burger craze that’s sweeping the nation, is trying to scrub its image as a greenhouse-gas-emitting machine.

With big retailers and investors pressing companies to improve their footprints, giants like Tyson Foods Inc. and Cargill Inc. are promising ambitious reductions in emissions, including in supply chains. Chief sustainabi­lity officers are popping up all over meat C-suites, and social media ads are touting beef ’s misunderst­ood health benefits.

It’s an uphill battle. For more than a decade, studies have piled on exhorting people to eat less beef for environmen­tal and health reasons. By some measures, agricultur­e accounts for more global greenhouse gas emissions than transport, thanks in part to livestock production.

Meanwhile, plant alternativ­es have captured the zeitgeist as more Americans dub themselves flexitaria­ns — people who regularly substitute other foods for meat. Companies like Beyond Meat Inc., which saw its shares more than triple since its blistering initial public offering, are riding the anti-meat wave, extolling the virtues of vegan products that are showing up on menus of nationwide chains including TGI Fridays.

The rise of meat alternativ­es could start cutting into beef ’s livelihood, if the recent decline of milk is any lesson. In less than a decade, alternativ­es came out of nowhere to steal significan­t market share from convention­al cow’s milk, a shift that contribute­d to the bankruptcy filing this month of behemoth Dean Foods Co. Today, milk alternativ­es account for 13 percent of the market.

Still, beef consumptio­n is robust in North America, and meat-eating in general is gaining globally. But the concerns come over how quickly vegan offerings are growing and the rise of the multi-trillion market for green and sustainabl­e assets. Deborah Perkins, global head of food and agribusine­ss at ING Wholesale

Banking, says the industry will have to keep on working to improve its footprint.

“It’s not like at any point will the industry be able to say: ‘We are done,’” she said. “People are going to want to eat meat. We will see growth in the alternativ­emeat industry, but I don’t think it’s going to completely replace meat.”

Much of the environmen­tal woes come down to how the animals process food. Cattle emit methane, a particular­ly potent greenhouse gas, as part of their normal digestive processes. To put it simply, it’s cow farts and manure that are a large culprit.

But the industry is pointing to new numbers that show how efficient American production is compared with the rest of the world. A recent government study funded by the industry pinpointed U.S. beef ’s footprint at about 3 percent of man-made greenhouse gases, paltry compared with the 14.5 percent global number that’s often cited.

“We should own that 3 percent and reduce it, because 3 percent is still important,” said Kim Stackhouse-Lawson, director of sustainabi­lity at JBS USA. Brazilian parent company JBS SA is the world’s biggest beef producer.

JBS’s U.S. and Canada business units set a goal to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 20 percent by 2020 from a 2015 baseline.

The industry is also working to highlight the environmen­tal benefits to raising cattle. The U.S. Great Plains, the heart of beef production and a major carbon sink, is preserved in part because of cattle grazing, said Nancy Labbe, who manages the World Wildlife Fund’s sustainabl­e ranching initiative and also works with the U.S. Roundtable for Sustainabl­e Beef.

Ruminants like cattle, because of their two stomachs, can digest feed inedible to humans, turning it into protein for human consumptio­n. At Cactus Feeders, a company that operates feedlots in the Texas panhandle and turns over about a million head of cattle a year, 40 percent of what animals eat are byproducts from other industries. That includes glycerin, corn stalks, wheat straw, cotton burrs, distiller grains from ethanol production.

Technology can also help lower emissions. U.S. cattle have changed in recent decades through breeding and updates to feed formulas. Ranchers are able to produce the same amount of beef as they did in 1975 with 36 percent fewer animals, according to Sara Place, senior director of sustainabl­e beef production for the National Cattlemen’s Beef Associatio­n.

Ermias Kebreab, a professor of animal science at University of California-Davis, said that major reductions in emissions are achievable over the next five years given the promise of imminent feed additives that reduce the amount of methane cattle produce.

One big challenge for the companies is to get ranchers on board. The meat industry isn’t vertically integrated, meaning the meatpacker­s don’t own the production assets (farms and cows).

Helping in the adoption of regenerati­ve farming practices such as grazing management and cover cropping can make a difference, said Heather Tansey, sustainabi­lity director at Cargill’s animal-nutrition unit. The company has a goal of reducing emissions by 30 percent in its North America beef supply-chain from a 2017 baseline.

Tyson is trying to get its beef suppliers on board with its sustainabi­lity track, too. It has pledged a 30 percent reduction across its entire business inclusive of supply chains by 2030.

The company licensed a voluntary program called Progressiv­e Beef, which audits and certifies best practices, including sustainabi­lity measures like water usage and manure management, said Justin Ransom, senior director of sustainabl­e food policy.

To be sure, it’s important to keep a close eye on the commitment­s from companies and make sure they’re being realized, said Marcia DeLonge, a senior scientist at the Union of Concerned Scientists.

“It’s really important to keep the big picture in mind about how farmers and ranchers need to be part of the climate change solution,” she said.

 ?? Carrie J. Jensen / Staff photograph­er ?? American ranchers say their cattle are responsibl­e for just 3 percent of man-made greenhouse gases and that they’re able to provide the same beef with 36 percent fewer animals than in 1975.
Carrie J. Jensen / Staff photograph­er American ranchers say their cattle are responsibl­e for just 3 percent of man-made greenhouse gases and that they’re able to provide the same beef with 36 percent fewer animals than in 1975.

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