Signature dishes help BBQ pitmasters stand out in a crowd
As the market for Houston barbecue continues to expand, pitmasters find themselves looking for ways to stand out in a crowded field.
Sure, producing exemplary barbecue on a consistent basis is the foundation for any barbecue joint’s success. But the overall quality of smoked meats in the Bayou City is getting better, too, and that means pitmasters must find other ways to differentiate themselves.
Enter the signature dish. Savvy pitmasters will associate their restaurants with unique dishes that are delicious as well as photogenic and social-media-friendly.
One of the most successful roll-outs of a signature dish in recent memory is the reubenstyle sandwich at Roegels Barbecue Co. Several years ago, barbecue joints in Texas began featuring pastrami — the cured and smoked brisket primarily associated with Jewish delis such as Kenny & Ziggy’s in Houston and Katz’s in New York.
Pitmaster Russell Roegels started making his own pastrami and built a once-a-week special around his version of a reuben sandwich with housemade pastrami, sauerkraut, Russian dressing, Swiss cheese and rye bread. “Pastrami Thursdays” have become a pilgrimage for many Houston barbecue fans.
Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-BQue in Katy is a new addition to the Houston-area barbecue scene and brings with it a classic signature dish for a barbecue joint. At its many locations throughout Texas, Cooper’s is known as the “Home of the Big
Chop,” which is tagged on every sign. This refers to the 1½-inchthick smoked pork chop that guests have long associated with the restaurant.
Smaller barbecue joints can also benefit from promoting a signature dish. Tony Faour of BBQ Godfather in Magnolia is as close to a one-man-show as it gets for a barbecue operation and has been wildly successful by becoming known for his specialty: Kansas City-style brisket burnt ends with a Texas twist. Signature dishes aren’t necessarily new inventions — in most cases, they are well-established dishes that pitmasters adopt and make their own.
Sometimes a signature dish comes from closer to home. Rib sandwiches are regarded as a specialty in both Southern barbecue and East Texas barbecue traditions. And at Burns Original BBQ in Acres Homes, the weekly “Wrib Sandwich Wednesday” special draws crowds from all over the city.
Barbecue entrepreneurs who are just starting out can use signature dishes to gain valuable early publicity. When Blood Bros. BBQ started hosting pop-ups around town, they became associated with Asian-influenced dishes such as gochujang-flavored smoked beef belly. They’ve carried that tradition over to their brick-andmortar restaurant and now roll out new, signature-worthy dishes on an almost daily basis.
Desserts may be the one menu category that uses signature dishes more than any other. Chef Ronnie Killen was the pacesetter, making croissant bread pudding a highlight on par with his exemplary smoked meats.
Truth BBQ in Brenham and Houston is well known for its colossal, multilayer cakes in mouthwatering varieties including triple chocolate, red velvet and banana caramel.
And perhaps the best example of a signature dessert is at Tejas Chocolate + BBQ, where the dessert is actually in the name. For owners Scott and Greg Moore and Michelle Holland, a bean-to-bar chocolate hobby transformed into a fullfledged barbecue joint with chocolate a still-very-popular side hustle.
Barbecue purists will always discount the need for a barbecue joint to have a signature dish. “Just make great barbecue and they will come” is certainly a valid point of view and may work in some locations and circumstances. But to stand out, a signature dish can put a new pitmaster on the map.