Houston Chronicle Sunday

Gambling on barbecue in Las Vegas

- Jcreid@jcreidtx.com twitter.com/jcreidtx

Until recently, finding decent barbecue in Las Vegas was a hit-or-miss affair, and mostly miss. There were a few casinobase­d joints and even some local outlets, but for the high expectatio­ns of visiting Texans, they never really measured up.

That’s changing. Like most big cities in the U.S. and even internatio­nally, the siren song of Texas barbecue has resulted in an expatriate army of pitmasters bringing a diaspora of Lone Star State smoked meats to all corners of the country.

Add Las Vegas to that list. Recent openings there have made finding good barbecue a possibilit­y for Texans, and especially Houstonian­s, visiting Sin City. Here is a- noncompreh­ensive list of barbecue joints that should be on a Texan’s radar.

Your choice for barbecue will depend on your strategy for visiting Las Vegas. For instance, if you’re on a gambling-only visit, i.e., staying at a casino on the Strip or downtown with no plans to venture out except to other casinos, your best bet is Blood Bros. BBQ at the new Resorts World property. You read that right — one of Houston’s definitive barbecue joints recently opened a branch in a Las Vegas casino.

Located on the first floor of this visually spectacula­r and brand-new hotel and casino (worth a visit all on its own), Blood Bros. is one storefront in a food court known as the “Famous Foods Street Eats,” featuring world cuisines inspired by the casino’s Asian-themed marketing and design. The menu is understand­ably simplified from the Houston location, but the Texas trinity of brisket, pork ribs and sausage is properly featured. On a recent visit, the flavor and cooking technique of the brisket was almost identical

to what you get at the Bellaire restaurant. A welcome respite for Houstonian­s seeking a taste of home.

If you want to get out of the casino bubble and visit a place where the locals go, then Rollin Smoke Barbeque is the place to

be. The barbecue trends toward Southern U.S. traditions with influences of competitio­n-style barbecue and is one of the best examples of this genre of smoked meats I’ve found. Aside from the well-cooked meats and big portions, the scene is straight out of a Quentin Tarantino movie with blue- and whitecolla­r workers mixing with down-at-the-heels local gamblers coming off a 24-hour bender.

If you’re not quite ready to go full Vegas-local and prefer to stay on the tourist beat, head north toward downtown and the newly branded Arts District. The local powers that be correctly calculated that diversifyi­ng the Vegas tourist experience is a good thing, so they’ve created this neighborho­od of art galleries, breweries and restaurant­s.

Here you will find SoulBelly BBQ, helmed by nationally recognized chef Bruce Kalman, who is producing solid Texas-inspired barbecue from two massive 1,000-gallon offset barrel pits sitting right in front of the restaurant. This place is also a good option if you are craving a cold Topo Chico or Mexican Coke in the parched Las Vegas heat.

And if you are truly a homesick Houstonian in Vegas, head a couple of blocks south in the Arts District to Braeswood Tex Mex BBQ. Recently opened by native Houstonian Gerald Casas and named after the neighborho­od he grew up in, Braeswood produces excellent brisket tacos, pork ribs and sausage.

Casas is cooking with a 500gallon offset barrel pit built by Texas-based Cen-Tex Smokers, and it shows — the brisket on a recent visit carried the aggressive salt-and-pepper, smoky flavor that Texans expect from their barbecue. With Astros and Rockets signs all over the walls, it’s a taste and feel of home.

 ?? Photos by J.C. Reid / Contributo­r ?? SoulBelly BBQ produces solid Texas-inspired barbecue in Las Vegas.
Photos by J.C. Reid / Contributo­r SoulBelly BBQ produces solid Texas-inspired barbecue in Las Vegas.
 ??  ?? Rollin Smoke Barbeque is where Vegas locals go for barbecue.
Rollin Smoke Barbeque is where Vegas locals go for barbecue.
 ?? J.C. REID ??
J.C. REID

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