Houston Chronicle Sunday

BADOLINA BAKERY & CAFE

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The gist: This fresh-looking contempora­ry Israeli bakery and cafe in Rice Village spotlights the singular pastry and breadmakin­g talents of Michal Michaeli. She made the bread service at sibling Doris Metropolit­an steakhouse a Houston landmark.

The hook: Seldom have savory pastries been so exciting in Houston, a city in which the baking arts have finally begun to bloom. Every morning brings fresh surprise: A 6-minute egg shimmers like a flower atop a saucer-shaped field of spinach and feta; deeply caramelize­d onion, tomato and eggplant ride a focaccia raft; spicy shakshuka hides inside an envelope of soft, chewy dough. The sweet pastries gleam like luxury watches in their glass case, the espresso drinks are rich and strong. And the bread loaves, nested in round wall alcoves, are a multi-textured festival of seeds and unusual grains.

What to order: Spinach and cheese burekas; open-face focaccia; cardamom twist; cheesecake slice; Crioche, a buttery spiral mined with fresh strawberry and vanilla bean; seeded sourdough loaf; flat white.

Outdoor option: A delightful­ly landscaped front patio feels almost European.

5555 Morningsid­e, 832-649-5909; badolinaba­kery.com

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