CAFE LEONELLI
The gist: New York celebrity chef Jonathan Benno dreamed up this gem of a museum restaurant; and a local crew from La Table and the associated Bastion Group, where service and precise cooking are twin strengths, run the front and back of the house.
The hook: Who knew cafeteria-style museum fare could be this good? Or feel so special? From the light sculpture “Moon Dust” floating over the luminous sweep of space, to the cordial counter line and pay-up-front, semi-serve efficiencies, Leonelli works like a small miracle. The depths of the soups, the glazed perfection of the parmigiana casseroles; the tart oil-and-vinegar spark of the well-dressed sandwiches: It all measures up to the grand setting by architect Steven Holl. Beyond lie the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston’s adjacent modern collections and the leafy Isamu Noguchi-designed sculpture garden. Go ahead, make a day of it.
What to order: Eggplant parmigiana; foccacia and salumi sandwiches made to order; brisk salads; ribollita; festive splits of Italian wine; Salvatore Martone’s Italian pastries, gelato, sorbetto and fanciful frozen pops from the bakery display and freezer cases.
Outdoor option: Plenty of cafe tables out on the Kinder Building’s skirts, with a view of the museum’s core structure, and its sleek Mies van der Rohe facade, across the street.
5500 Main, Kinder Building, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, 713-714-3014; cafeleonelli.com