KOFFETERIA
The gist: Sweet and savory pastries that draw on chef Vanarin Kuch’s Cambodian roots — and Houston’s diverse foodways — make visits to his welcoming EaDo bakery and coffee cafe an adventure.
The hook: You never know what treasures you’ll find in the alluring display cases. Kuch makes ingenious use of Asian ingredients including ube and pandan, and he’s keyed into the cultural currents that have made his Hot Cheeto Croissant with nacho cheese a bestseller. Kuch is a master of balancing textures and flavors, salt and sweet and Houston-friendly heat. Look for such showstoppers as a laminated swirl of asparagus, Brussels sprouts and smoky whipped Gouda; or the London Fog roll, coils of feather-soft croissant dough cradling Meyer lemon and citron, its dusting of sugar tinged with Earl Grey tea. Warm service and an obvious care for the well-being of staff add even more to the appeal.
What to order: Beef pho kolache; custardy quiche of the day with a simple green salad; cortado; Salty Cambodian espresso drink; breakfast taco with egg, Chinese sausage and green-papaya pico; sprawling seasonal “muffin tops.”
Outdoor option: Seating on an appealing patio in an Astroturfed courtyard behind the bakery draws a lively crowd.
1110 Hutchins, No. 102; koffeteria.com