Houston Chronicle Sunday

Ranking the 10 best restaurant­s on San Antonio’s River Walk

- By Mike Sutter STAFF WRITER

10. Paesanos Riverwalk

The best Italian restaurant on the River Walk is famous for Shrimp Paesano, and rightly so. Lightly fried with lemon butter garlic sauce, it’s copied all over the city. Have a bottle of Italian red, a respectabl­e red sauce lasagna and ask for one of the bistro tables right on the river. 111 W. Crockett St., Suite 101, 210-227-2782, paesanosri­verwalk.com

9. Fogo de Chão Brazilian Steakhouse

Bite for bite, this might be the best value on the River Walk, a nonstop procession of grilled meat and a market table of salads, cheeses and marinated vegetables that’s practicall­y a meal in itself. With the white-tablecloth elan of a high-end steakhouse, Fogo de Chão is neverthele­ss fine with your shorts, your hat and your baby stroller. Ask for the bay-windowed front room overlookin­g the river. 849 E. Commerce St., Suite 393, 210-227-1700, fogodechao.com

8. Landry’s Seafood House

Landry’s parent company owns a lot of the tourist-trap concepts on the River Walk. They’re not on this list. But the flagship is, thanks to its sense of style, a strong margarita and a properly grilled rib-eye piled with crab, shrimp and scallops. The dining room’s like a cattle baron’s parlor, but the umbrella tables on the riverfront give you a better sense of the wildlife, human and otherwise. 517 N. Presa St., 210-229-1010, landryssea­food.com

7. Range at Embassy Suites by Hilton San Antonio Riverwalk Downtown

Yes, you can go for a nice rib-eye here, seared and seasoned to enjoy at your table with a window view of the river. But Range has so much more, well, range thanks to celebrity chef Jason Dady’s creativity with dishes like the South Texas answer to beef tartare called parisa and deviled eggs topped with brisket jam. 125 E. Houston St., 210-227-4455, rangesa.com

6. Ácenar

There’s no way you can make a River Walk Top 10 without a Mexican restaurant, right? It’s not that simple, because among the dozen or so dedicated Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurant­s, only a few rise above processed cheese and homogenize­d spice. The best of those is Ácenar, a lively resort-style place with creative spins on enchiladas, tacos and grilled meats, with reliably strong margaritas and one of the biggest riverfront patios on this list. 146 E. Houston St., 210-222-2362, acenar.com

5. Ostra at Mokara Hotel & Spa

Ostra is the River Walk’s best overall seafood

There’s a set of filters that click into place when I talk about restaurant­s on the River Walk. I call those filters my River Walk goggles. I put them on when someone asks for recommenda­tions along that watery carnival midway and I have to answer the ultimate question:

Is it good? Or is it River Walk good? You know, like just good enough to fool the out-of-towners, or at least wash away their discernmen­t with bottom-shelf tequila.

More than 50 restaurant­s live on the stretch between César E. Chávez Boulevard and Fourth Street, if you’re keeping track of who’s open, closed or just winging it in the aftermath of the pandemic’s devastatin­g impact on tourism.

Here, I rank the restaurant­s that aren’t just River Walk good, but good enough to recommend without an asterisk, without a caveat. experience, with fresh East Coast oysters and a deft touch with roasted and grilled fish. It’s formal without being stuffy, and the striped beach umbrellas on the riverfront sidewalk have a nice synchronic­ity with margaritas served in giant blue martini glasses. 212 W. Crockett St., 210-396-5817, omnihotels.com/hotels/ san-antonio-mokara/ dining/ostra

4. Landrace at the Thompson San Antonio — Riverwalk

Maybe you want the comfort of a big-city cosmopolit­an grill when you travel. Landrace is down with that, with modern furniture, grilled steaks, smart cocktails and a posh side room overlookin­g the river. But look deeper and you’ll find Texas in a menu that celebrates local produce, grains and proteins overseen by perennial James Beard finalist chef Steve McHugh. 111

Lexington Ave., 210-942-6026, landracetx.com

3. Boudro’s Texas Bistro

Guacamole made right at your table has turned into a kind of running joke at places where avocado-juggling is in fashion. But not here. Making guacamole tableside is serious business at Boudro’s, with studied precision and custom spice levels that produce a shaggy, engrossing guacamole. It’s a handshake for the broader Boudro’s experience that includes a great Black Angus beef filet and creative Southweste­rn options. Look for the ochre-colored umbrellas that look like the brim of a cowboy hat. 421 E. Commerce St., 210-224-8484, boudros.com

 ?? Photos by Mike Sutter /Staff file ?? Shrimp Paesano, foreground, Special Salad and lasagna are among the favorites at the Italian restaurant Paesanos Riverwalk.
Photos by Mike Sutter /Staff file Shrimp Paesano, foreground, Special Salad and lasagna are among the favorites at the Italian restaurant Paesanos Riverwalk.
 ?? ?? Landrace is the marquee restaurant from chef Steve McHugh at the Thompson San Antonio-Riverwalk.
Landrace is the marquee restaurant from chef Steve McHugh at the Thompson San Antonio-Riverwalk.
 ?? ?? Ostra at Mokara Hotel & Spa on the River Walk has a seafood-centric menu.
Ostra at Mokara Hotel & Spa on the River Walk has a seafood-centric menu.
 ?? ?? Landry’s Seafood House serves seafood, steaks and cocktails on the River Walk.
Landry’s Seafood House serves seafood, steaks and cocktails on the River Walk.
 ?? ?? The menu is varied at Range at Embassy Suites by Hilton San Antonio Riverwalk Downtown.
The menu is varied at Range at Embassy Suites by Hilton San Antonio Riverwalk Downtown.
 ?? ?? The menu at Boudro’s Texas Bistro includes a center-cut beef filet with chipotle bordelaise.
The menu at Boudro’s Texas Bistro includes a center-cut beef filet with chipotle bordelaise.
 ?? ?? Chef Jesse Kuykendall is the executive chef at Ocho at Hotel Havana on the River Walk.
Chef Jesse Kuykendall is the executive chef at Ocho at Hotel Havana on the River Walk.
 ?? ?? Biga on the Banks is known for chicken-fried oysters and agave cocktails.
Biga on the Banks is known for chicken-fried oysters and agave cocktails.
 ?? ?? Lamb chops are part of the parade of grilled meats at Fogo de Chão Brazilian Steakhouse.
Lamb chops are part of the parade of grilled meats at Fogo de Chão Brazilian Steakhouse.
 ?? ?? Try the Tres Enchiladas (verde, queso and mole) at Ácenar on the River Walk.
Try the Tres Enchiladas (verde, queso and mole) at Ácenar on the River Walk.

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