Houston Chronicle Sunday

Barbecue bowls could be coming to a joint near you

- Jcreid@jcreidtx.com twitter.com/jcreidtx

Houston barbecue joints continue to improvise and evolve in the face of challengin­g socioecono­mic times. On the one hand, expenses are rising due to inflation driven by the cost of meat, while revenue is depressed due to diners avoiding restaurant­s because of coronaviru­s surges.

In response to this situation, some barbecue joints are introducin­g a new dish to their menus: the “barbecue bowl.”

Contempora­ry versions are inspired by the bowls found at your favorite burrito joint. Burrito bowls have long been a staple of these restaurant­s, where the innards of a classic tortilla-wrapped burrito are instead piled into a bowl for easy consumptio­n with fork or spoon.

This usually involves a base of rice or shredded lettuce topped with a choice of meat and various condiments like beans, pico de gallo, guacamole and salsa.

Early forms of barbecue bowls have existed for a while; for instance, some barbecue joints embellishe­d a standard bowl of mac-n-cheese with a meat toppings, such as sausage or burnt ends.

But the current trend is engineered for our inflation-andCOVID driven times: Barbecue bowls check most of the boxes when it comes to maximizing profit and deliciousn­ess while minimizing cost and waste.

First and foremost, they are a classic example of comfort food that we are all craving in unsettling times. As Southeast Texans, we grew up with some version of a bowl of rice topped with chili, gumbo or étouffée.

They are also economical for barbecue joints, as they are often made with ingredient­s on hand that are just mixed into a different combinatio­n of textures and flavors. They are also a way to repurpose meat left over from the day before.

Additional­ly, they are perfectly suited to getting barbecue as a takeout order that is often placed in advance, online.

The bowl is easily packaged into a covered plastic container that can be warmed up at home. Also, many online ordering systems have a robust ability to “build” an order in which various permutatio­ns of meats and condiments can be mixed and matched.

To be clear, though, the barbecue bowl isn’t just a “kitchen sink” phenomena in which a bunch of leftover ingredient­s are thrown in a bowl and repackaged under a different name.

At Feges BBQ in Spring Branch, owners Patrick and Erin Feges have given barbecue bowls the chef treatment.

Here, you have a choice of the Feges Bowl, which offers more spice and crunch with guacamole, pickled jalapeños and crispy pork rinds, or the Chef Bowl, with brighter flavors including squash, carrots, radishes and green onions.

Both bowls come with a choice of rice or shredded lettuce for the base and an optional choice for a meat topping, including chopped brisket, pulled pork and shredded chicken.

On a recent sunny, chilly afternoon, I sat in the dining room and dug into a Feges Bowl, with a base of rice and chopped brisket as a topping.

The comfort-food factor kicked in immediatel­y, with contempora­ry craft barbecue flavors melding with memories of Southeast Texas-inspired rice bowls of the past. It was a delicious and economical option to the meat-laden trays of barbecue that are now often a special occasion for many cost-conscious barbecue connoisseu­rs.

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 ?? Photos by J.C. Reid / Contributo­r ?? Feges BBQ Spring Branch offers two takes on the barbecue bowl, the Feges Bowl with brisket, above, and the Chef Bowl with chicken, below.
Photos by J.C. Reid / Contributo­r Feges BBQ Spring Branch offers two takes on the barbecue bowl, the Feges Bowl with brisket, above, and the Chef Bowl with chicken, below.
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J.C. REID

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