Houston Chronicle Sunday

Roegels Barbecue heads west to Katy

- J.C. REID jcreid@jcreidtx.com twitter.com/jcreidtx

When Russell and Misty Roegels moved to Katy 20 years ago, they considered the fast-growing suburb as a possible second location for their Galleria-area barbecue joint, Baker’s Ribs.

But then life got busy. They started a family. Baker’s Ribs became successful, and they eventually transforme­d the restaurant into Roegels Barbecue Co.

Fast forward to 2021. Their kids had graduated high school. The original Roegels location has become a Houston barbecue staple with a loyal clientele and dedicated staff.

The time was right to move west. Though they considered other areas like the Energy Corridor and Cypress, Katy was always their first choice.

“We always said if we ever do another barbecue joint, it will be out here,” said Russell.

There’s no shortage of shopping centers and strip malls in Katy, so the challenge became finding the right one to fit the business. They found a large space in an end-cap of a small center near the intersecti­on of Interstate 10 and Westgreen Boulevard.

The space had previously been a roasted chicken joint, so it already had space for a large rotisserie-style barbecue pit. Russell ordered a custom pit from A.N. Bewley Fabricator­s, specifying the overall dimensions to be 1 inch less than the size of the front-door opening so that it could be easily rolled into the restaurant and installed.

The pit installati­on happened Dec. 10, and the location officially opened Feb. 5. The restaurant features an open dining room with large windows on two sides, a full-service cocktail bar and plenty of parking (there’s a large lot in the rear of the center).

In addition to serving the great barbecue for which Roegels is known, the restaurant is also a reflection of Russell and Misty’s journey through two decades in the business.

One side of the dining room features a “Wall of Legends” with pictures of the people who have helped and inspired them over the years. It’s a who’s who of Texas barbecue.

There’s Tootsie Tomanetz, Kerry Bexley, and Clay Cowgill of the legendary Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, Joe Duncan of Baker’s Ribs, as well as the team from Texas A&M University’s Meat Science Department.

Going back to Russell’s earliest days in the business, there’s a picture of Gary Adams, manager at the Bodacious Bar-B-Q chain based in Tyler, where Russell is from. Adams gave Russell his first job in barbecue, “pouring tea and washing dishes.” A picture of the chain’s founder, Roland Lindsey, is also included.

On another wall is a mural of Texas, meant to represent the camaraderi­e of the state’s barbecue culture. Traditiona­lly, when a pitmaster from one barbecue joint visits another joint, they will place a sticker of their logo on a wall or other area to show support and that they have visited. The mural has already collected quite a few stickers.

Ultimately, though, a barbecue joint will succeed based on its smoked meat and the people who make and serve it. Fortunatel­y, the Katy location of Roegels Barbecue is well-prepared in this area. Russell and Misty are a constant presence, splitting time between Katy and the original location.

Russell’s right-hand man from that location, Fletcher Sheridan, has moved to the Katy location as manager and pitmaster. The Roegels’ daughter, Victoria, is working at the order counter and in the dining room. Their friend Angela Jacobs is the bar manager.

Katy is slowly becoming known as a destinatio­n for great Texas barbecue. The new Roegels location only adds to that reputation.

 ?? Photos by J.C. Reid / Contributo­r ?? Roegels Barbecue expands on its tradition of serving up great food by opening a branch in Katy.
Photos by J.C. Reid / Contributo­r Roegels Barbecue expands on its tradition of serving up great food by opening a branch in Katy.
 ?? ?? Victoria Roegels works the counter at Roegels Barbecue in Katy.
Victoria Roegels works the counter at Roegels Barbecue in Katy.
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