Houston Chronicle Sunday

Nomad Barbecue puts down roots at Misfit Outpost in Cypress

- J.C. Reid BBQ STATE OF MIND jcreid@jcreidtx.com twitter.com/jcreidtx

A new barbecue-andbeer partnershi­p has opened in northwest Houston, bringing some of the city’s most innovative brews and smoked meats to Cypress.

Misfit Outpost is a collaborat­ion between veteran homebrewer Juan Sanchez of Misfit Beerworks, pitmaster James McFarland of Nomad Barbecue and Kevin Smith of Fortress Beerworks based in Spring.

It’s a natural partnershi­p based on the collaborat­ors’ unique strategies for making creative beer and barbecue that push the boundaries of flavor and technique.

Sanchez began as a homebrewer who extended his reach by partnering with local establishe­d breweries, including Fortress, where they created a successful Hazy IPA called Northwest Corridor. McFarland started out as a wandering barbecue popup specialist, partnering with local restaurant­s in the Katy area.

Misfit Outpost also features a full burger menu. This is, in part, because it is located in the former Shack Burger Resort location that was a mainstay in this area of Cypress for many years. Customers still pull up expecting the burger menu from the old Shack days (it closed in mid-2021).

“I have a burger menu and I have to keep it on there,” says McFarland, referring to the location’s burger pedigree. “It’s the bread and butter.”

For now, at least. McFarland is quickly transition­ing the menu to his own unique style of Texas barbecue: “I’m a rock-and-roll, metalhead kind of guy, and I like menu items with edgier themes rather than the good ol’ boy Texas barbecue.”

McFarland got his start as an assistant pitmaster at the Pit Room not long after it opened as one of the earliest craft barbecue joints in Houston. He went on to a stint at Tejas Chocolate & BBQ in Tomball before founding Reveille Barbecue Co. in Magnolia in 2018 with thenpartne­r Michael Michna. They would eventually bring on local chef and pitmaster Wade Elkins as an associate.

McFarland branched out on his own in 2020 and started doing pop-ups and collaborat­ions in the Alief/Katy/Fulshear area where he grew up. His unique barbecue point of view continues to evolve and expand, especially now that he is working in a permanent kitchen and (future) pit room at Misfit Outpost.

For now, there is an everyday menu of barbecue-inspired dishes as well as the burgers. On weekends, McFarland is implementi­ng a traditiona­l a la carte, Texas trinity menu of brisket, pork ribs and house-made sausages that often incorporat­e Misfit’s and Fortress’ beer selection.

On a recent specials list, McFarland incorporat­ed Fortress’ Battering Ram Smash’d IPA into a house-made pork-andbeef sausage. Daily menu items combine McFarland’s stellar smoked meats with his unique approach to incorporat­ing Texas barbecue with the many different cuisines of Houston, including TexMex influences.

The Tacos Vampiros start with a base of crispy corn tortilla covered in molten Monterey Jack cheese, which is topped with a slice of peppery Central Texas-style brisket, pickled red peppers, cilantro and a mole-inspired “Diablo” barbecue sauce.

There is also a prodigious pork belly torta sandwich. McFarland smokes whole slabs of pork belly, chops it up and piles it onto a toasted bolillo bun with melted cheese, tallow refried beans, hatch peppers and a house-made salsa aquacate (green sauce).

Beer and barbecue are a natural pairing, but not all collaborat­ions get it right. Fortunatel­y, Misfit Outpost is the perfect example of a unique and innovative beer and barbecue pairing in an expansive, family-friendly location with a big patio and live music.

 ?? J.C. Reid / Contributo­r ?? Pork belly torta at Misfit Outpost
J.C. Reid / Contributo­r Pork belly torta at Misfit Outpost
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