Black’s Barbecue in Lockhart stays true to tradition
Novelty is the goal of any industry with claims to relevancy, and Texas barbecue is no different.
Whether it was the introduction of brisket as the premier protein of Lone Star State smoked meats in the 1960s, or the addition of tortillas to craft barbecue menus in the past decade, Texas barbecue is constantly evolving. But tradition is never far from the debate about how much change is necessary. And in the current cycle of accelerated innovation in cooking techniques, ingredients and menu items, staying true to the past may be the most original approach when it comes to standing out from the barbecue crowd.
That’s exactly the plan at Black’s Barbecue in Lockhart. Opened as a classic Central Texas meat market in 1932, the current slogan here is “Nearly a century later, our business plan is to not change a thing.”
The plan appears to be working. On a recent visit to Lockhart, I made the trek past the majestic sandstone-clad courthouse to the current Black’s location that opened in 1936. Before reaching the wood-paneled, low-slung building, I found a line of acolytes waiting their turn to place an order at the old-school chopping block just inside the doorway.
Third-generation owner and pitmaster Kent Black roamed the dining room, greeting customers and clearing tables. With Texas barbecue booming around the world, many high-profile pitmasters spend much of their time on the road, away from their restaurant, cooking at festivals and special events.
So it was great to see Kent front and center at his restaurant. He clearly enjoys being the face of the local family business, while son Barrett often handles the promotion of the business far-afield at festivals around the country as well as on social media.
When I first visited Black’s Barbecue more than a decade ago, they were one of only a few barbecue joints serving a colossal beef short rib that is now the de facto Instagram-worthy postcard of Texas barbecue around the world.
Today, the menu is known for the beef rib, brisket and a classic version of Central Texas hot-guts-style sausage.
“We’ve been making these (sausage) rings since 1932,” says Kent, “It’s 90 percent beef and 10 percent pork.”
Like a lot of old-school Texas barbecue joints, their history is literally written on the walls of the dining room. There’s a photo of Kent’s grandfather, Edgar Black Sr., shaking hands with then-President Lyndon Johnson. Kent’s parents, Edgar Jr. and Norma Jean, are featured prominently. There’s a picture of Kent and Candy with Willie Nelson.
Kent became the face of Black’s Barbecue relatively recently. After growing up in the family business, Kent ventured out on his own, settling in Houston where he attended South Texas College of Law. He met his wife, Candy, at Gilley’s in Pasadena in the 1980s. They still have family here. Eventually, they moved back to Lockhart, where he worked as a lawyer for many years before taking over the family business. Today, along with his sons, he oversees a barbecue enterprise that hews to tradition but has expanded in operations.
In addition to the original location in Lockhart, Black’s now has outposts in Austin, New Braunfels and San Marcos. They have also developed a robust nationwide shipping business, thanks to their frequent appearances on food and travel television channels.
Black’s is proof that many Americans — Texans included — can’t get enough of traditional, old-school, Central Texas-style barbecue.