Houston Chronicle

Nation enjoys the rapid spread of guacamole

Avocado consumptio­n soars in U.S. as image gains healthy aspect

- By Lynn Brezosky

To hear Emiliano Escobedo tell it, the avocado industry knew it had scored with the American consumer when guacamole became a mainstay for watching the Super Bowl.

It also caught on for college basketball’s March Madness — and Memorial Day, the Fourth of July and Labor Day.

“I always say avocado people are party people,” said Escobedo, executive director of the Irvine, Calif.-based Hass Avocado Board. “You can’t go to aparty and not have guacamole.”

But the avocado story isn’t just about guacamole.

Not long ago, East Coast and Midwest shoppers curious about avocados found only flavorless, hard-as-baseball fruit that, when sliced, didn’t look or smell anything like what they’d tried at a Mexican restaurant.

These days, the fruit can be found ripe throughout the country, yearround. It’s a condiment for sandwiches at Subway and part of the Santa Fe Breakfast Skillet at Denny’s. It’s a burger topper, salad ingredient, and touch of flavor and color in a sushi roll.

Avocado consumptio­n in the U.S. has skyrockete­d, Escobedo said, growing about 1,200 percent since the start of the millennium 14 years ago. Last year, more than 3.3 billion avocados were consumed in the

United States, which works out to about 10 per person.

USDA statistics show 38,676 metric tons of avocados were imported from Mexico in 2004, for a value of $59.9 million. In only the first five months of this year, 258,430 metric tons came in from Mexico, for a value of $567.8 million.

“It keeps on growing and growing at doubledigi­t growth,” Escobedo said. “The growth in the demand in the United States has been consistent.” End of restrictio­ns

One key reason for the soaring popularity was the 2005 end of restrictin­g imports from Mexico, something growers in California — by far the largest U.S. region for avocado production — feared. Previously, Mexican avocados were only allowed in some states on the East Coast. That changed as Mexican growers were able to demonstrat­e that their product could be exported with no threat of spreading pests to U.S. groves.

With availabili­ty came affordabil­ity for inland U.S. consumers, who were getting more exposure to Mexican food as the nation’s Latino population grew.

As avocado sales grew, so did the budget for advertisin­g, thanks to a government-mandated program that assesses producers a 2.5 cents perpound fee for marketing.

The industry also has poured funding into research on the nutritiona­l benefits of the fruit, and has touted it as nutrientde­nse, with more than 20 vitamins and minerals.

“There’s been a change in perception,” Escobedo said. “Even 10 years ago, a lot of consumers thought avocados were fattening. That’s changing.”

The message has been “that it’s a ‘good fat.’ And a lot of that has been the result of our work.”

Almost all the Mexican avocados come from the state of Michoacán, and the majority come in through Texas ports at Laredo and the Rio Grande Valley. Thousands more loads

In2011, there were 16,391 truckloads of avocados coming through Texas. In 2013, there were 26,200.

“There has been growing demand ever since the U.S. markets have been open to avocado distributi­on coming from Mexico,” said Bret Erickson, president of the Texas Internatio­nal Produce Associatio­n. “They’ve been very aggressive about marketing the product, and you see it more and more in restaurant­s, incorporat­ed in different fashions and different ways. It tastes good, and people are catching on to the health benefits.” Global standard

California’s avocado industry started in the early 20th century but took off when a postman named Rudolph Hass grafted the variety that’s now the worldwide standard, and grown in Mexico, Peru, Chile and California.

In the early 1980s, Gil Henry developed a forcedair ripening system.

As soon as the market opened to Mexican avocados, Henry took his system to what’s now a 20,000-square-foot facility in San Antonio’s produce terminal, making it a hub for avocados coming across the border at Laredo.

It was a novel concept — and one not all retailers have adopted, said Phil Henry, a cousin of Gil Henry. But he said his own research shows consumers want to buy avocados ripe enough to use that night.

“We’ve proven that with video cameras, with me standing in the stores,” Henry said.

 ?? Helen L. Montoya / San Antonio Express-News photos ?? Omar Rodriguez moves boxes of avocados at Henry Avocado Corp. The California-based company uses its San Antonio facility as a hub from which it ships throughout Texas and nearby states including Colorado.
Helen L. Montoya / San Antonio Express-News photos Omar Rodriguez moves boxes of avocados at Henry Avocado Corp. The California-based company uses its San Antonio facility as a hub from which it ships throughout Texas and nearby states including Colorado.
 ??  ?? Last year in the United States more than 3.3 billion avocados were consumed. That works out to about 10 per person.
Last year in the United States more than 3.3 billion avocados were consumed. That works out to about 10 per person.
 ?? Helen L. Montoya / San Antonio Express-News ?? One reason for the growing popularity of avocados was the 2005 end of restrictin­g imports from Mexico.
Helen L. Montoya / San Antonio Express-News One reason for the growing popularity of avocados was the 2005 end of restrictin­g imports from Mexico.

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