Houston Chronicle

Fries get Baconator upgrade at Wendy’s

- By Ken Hoffman ken.hoffman@chron.com twitter.com/KenChron

This week, I reached out for a platter of 2015’s “Fast Food Can’t Miss” winner: Baconator Fries, at America’s No. 3 burger flipper, Wendy’s, with 6,500 restaurant­s across this great land.

You know the Baconator double cheeseburg­er, topped with bacon … and more bacon … and more bacon after that. The Baconator was Wendy’s monster hit of 2009. Now Wendy’s is back with the first spinoff of its Baconator franchise — Baconator Fries.

Did somebody say fries and cheese and bacon? Wow! What a spectacula­rly genius idea!

Uh … what took you so long?

Here’s the Baconator Fries breakdown: Wendy’s skin-on natural fries, smothered in gooey, sticky cheese sauce, sprinkled with shredded cheddar and made grand with bacon on top.

Bacon makes everything better. I’d eat a french-fried catcher’s mitt if it had bacon on it.

Total calories: 490. Fat grams: 25. Sodium: 550 mg. Carbs: 45 g. Dietary fiber: 4 g. Protein: 14 g. Manufactur­er’s suggested retail price: $1.99.

Wendy’s, you do bacon right. You don’t just ship a hermetical­ly sealed bag of pre-cooked bacon bits to each store with “Open This End” on the package. No, each Wendy’s restaurant fries up bacon in-store, fresh every day.

Is there a better, more romantic, more comforting aroma than bacon sizzling on a hot grill?

Wendy’s doesn’t put its bacon through the mill and grind it to bits. Wendy’s does a coarse chop, so you get some big shards of bacon on your Baconator Fries. Wendy’s starts with thicker-than-most, Applewoods­moked bacon, so it’s a cut above standard fastfood fare.

One problem is quality control. I tried Baconator Fries at three locations. I was pleased with the amount of bacon at two Wendy’s, devastated at the third. (I devastate easy.) Daddy wasn’t bringing home the bacon that day.

Baconator Fries are served in the same black plastic tray with a clear dome as the Ghost Pepper Fries a few months back. Don’t know if Ghost Pepper will be back — you can’t rely on the spirit world these days.

But Baconator Fries … I’ll be seeing you on Wendy’s permanent menu soon.

Everybody loves cheese fries. They’re messy and hot and delicious. Wendy’s puts a lot of cheese on these fries, so it’s impossible to eat with your fingers. You’ll be smelling cheese on your hands and pillow and remote control for days.

I wouldn’t mind Wendy’s frying its fries a few seconds longer. They could stand a little more crispy.

The only thing that could hold down Baconator Fries sales? They’re not made for eating in your car.

You’d have to rest the tray on your lap. One bump and yeoooow! And how are you going to drive when you’re fumbling for fries with one hand, yakking on the phone with the other, and giving the finger to the idiot who just cut you off with your third hand?

If you think Wendy’s is done pushing bacon, you’ve got another thing coming — probably a few more things.

A Bacon Milkshake sounds about right, and how about a pile of bacon on a Spicy Chicken Sandwich? Just slap the name Baconator in front of anything, and Wendy’s has a winner.

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Wendy’s Baconator Fries

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