2012 Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir

Overall score: 18.9 (8.9 for quality, 10 for value)

Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommendation with a high score of 9.2 and two scores of 9. “Cherry and tobacco notes. Well-structured but also yummy.”

My score: 9. Swiss immigrant Andrew Frei established the property in 1890 in the Dry Creek Valley that was run by Frei’s two sons, Walter and Lewis, for 70 years. Gallo purchased Frei Ranch in the late 1970s and today makes six varietal-specific wines, all offering excellent value. The pinot noir is a prime example. Alcohol: 14.5 percent. Winegrower Scott Johnsen explains

how the wine was made: “The grapes were de-stemmed but not crushed to retain a significant portion of whole berries, then cold-soaked for two days to enhance color and create a round, rich mouth feel. The fermentation temperature was capped at 83 degrees Fahrenheit to preserve more delicate aromas like lavender and boysenberry. We used pump-overs and rotations in the cone-sweep and rotary tanks to encourage a smooth, elegant taste. Following fermentation, the wine aged for eight to 10 months in a combination of new and used French and American oak barrels to complement the dark fruit flavors with toasted vanilla, treacle and aspic.”

Critical acclaim: Earned a 90 from Wine Enthusiast: “Beguiling streaks of red cherry surround a light, spicy, food-friendly core that’s well balanced and integrated, the oak and tannin elegantly respectful of the red fruit. It offers medium weight amid the smoothness.”

Buy it: $21.84