Houston Chronicle

2014 Brooks Pinot Blanc

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Overall score: 18.9 (8.9 for quality, 10 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommenda­tion with three scores of 9 or higher. “Flavorful, ripe and lemony. Big fruit, elegant finish.” My score: 9. Portland native Jimi Brooks founded his winery in Oregon’s Eola Hills in 1998 and was one of Oregon’s most celebrated young winemakers when, six years later, at age 38, he died of an aortic aneurism before harvest. Neighbors pitched in to get the grapes picked and the wine made. One of those who helped significan­tly under the tragic circumstan­ces was Chris Williams, who’s now the winemaker. Brooks’ son, Pascal, is the owner (he was 8 when his father died) and Brooks’ sister, Janie Brooks Heuck, is in charge of the business operation. A documentar­y, “American Wine Story,” focuses on Brooks and is well worth viewing, just as this light-bodied but surprising­ly complex and spirited pinot blanc is well worth drinking, especially with spring approachin­g. Alcohol: 12.6 percent.

Winemaker notes: “Bright lemon on the nose, ranging from delicate lemon blossom flowers to lemon drop candy. A touch of apricot and fennel, kumquat and cut grass, dried oregano and lime leaf. In the mouth the wine is generous, with ripe, rich fruit and a finish of lemon candy, melon and orange pith. Red apple, quince and yellow pear, with beautiful perfumed citrus. This is a full-bodied wine with a wonderful weight and richness … a cross between an albariño and an Alsatian pinot blanc.” Pairings: Grilled chicken breast, cheese-based dishes, flaky white fish. Buy it: $16.99 with affinity card at Kroger at 1035 N. Shepherd

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