Houston Chronicle

2012 Cuvaison Estate Pinot Noir

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Overall score: 17.9 (8.9 for quality, 9 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommenda­tion with a high score of 9.2. “Smoky notes, grippy tannins. Spicy with good red fruit.” My score: 8.8. The Schmidhein­y family from Switzerlan­d purchased the 10-yearold winery in 1979 after concluding it had tremendous potential for wine-growing. The family was right. The vineyard, set in beautifull­y rolling hills, is cooled by the fog coming off San Pablo Bay, making it the perfect spot for pinot noir and chardonnay. Winemaker Steve Rogstad has been in charge since 2002. This pinot noir is a reflection of his skill in delivering balanced, nuanced wines at a fair price. Alcohol: 14.1 percent. Winemaker notes: “2012 was a bountiful year with beautiful weather throughout a long growing season. This made for a very generous, forward pinot noir with rose, raspberry and black cherry notes on the nose, back by hints of allspice and cardamom. Tasting the wine, the expansive, fresh berry character is carried along by silky, smooth tannins and bright cheerful acidity, (providing) a long, elegant finish.” Critical acclaim: The Wine Enthusiast awarded a score of 91 points: “With a light, silky mouth feel and mouthwater­ing acidity, this Pinot satisfies for its rich array of raspberrie­s, cherries, spices, cola and smoky oak. It defines the Carneros style: tart, a little earthy and ageworthy.” Pairings: Grilled quail, pulled pork, seared salmon and tuna. Buy it: $29.79

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