Houston Chronicle

2013 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay

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Overall score: 17.4 (8.9 for quality, 8.5 for value) Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommenda­tion with three scores of 9. “Ripe pear and oak flavors. A bright but subtle wine showing great balance.” My score: 8.8. The gorgeous winery dates to 1882, when it was founded north of Calistoga by Alfred Tubbs. But it didn’t become famous until Jim Barrett took over in 1972. He immediatel­y replanted the cabernet sauvignon vineyards and sent his winemaker, Mike Grgich, looking for chardonnay grapes. The 55-acre site Grgich found at the foot of Mt. Veeder contribute­d to “The Judgment of Paris” champion wine and remains a primary source of Montelena’s chardonnay. The latest release profited from a first worrisome, then blessed, growing season, resulting in fully evolved aromatics, flavors and textures. Alcohol: 13.8 percent Winemaker notes: “The aromatics lean toward the floral and citrus families with rose petals, lemon blossom and just a hint of ripe melon sneaking through. While the palate is opulent, full of lemon meringue, peach pie, and ripe strawberry, the vibrancy of the acidity reliably lays the foundation for food pairing and aging for many years to come. In classic Montelena fashion, the minerality steps into the spotlight on the finish … .” Critical acclaim: None yet. But the three previous vintages all received scores of at least 90 from a variety of reviewers.

Price: $48.70 at Kroger

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