Somm’s pick: 2013 Château de Santenay

Who: Ralph Castellano, wine “therapist” at Spec’s on Smith, where he has spent most of his three decades in the business. After graduating from Stephen F. Austin High School on Houston’s east side, Castellano came to Spec’s to apply for a job. “Just a kid trying to find my way,” he says. “My dad was the mailman, delivering mail to the building. He brought me in and told Mr. Spec (Jackson) I wanted a job. I filled out an application and did well on the aptitude test. Mr. (John) Rydman (Jackson’s son-inlaw, who still runs the Spec’s chain today) saw some potential in me. I got hired as a cashier, then got into beer (sales), but my curiosity with wine was piqued immediately. So many wines had their uniqueness, their specialness. Thankfully, things worked out really well.”

What: 2013 Château de Santenay Clos de la Chaise Dieu Monopole

Why: This chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune, Castellano says, “represents, to me, the search for the Holy Grail. White burgundy scares so many people off, but this is a great white burgundy for 20 bucks. When people try it, they immediately recognize its quality. The nose, the flavor, the balance, the fresh acidity all stand out. The soft-spoken oak presence speaks out. All those components put together paint a picture of a $50 bottle.”

The winery: The property, located in St. Aubin and perfectly situated atop a limestone fault, dates to the ninth century and profits from excellent drainage. The first Duke of Burgundy, Philippe le Hardi, who banned the cultivation of the gamay grape (think Beaujolais) in the Cöte d’Or in his edict of 1385, was once the owner, but in modern times it took a major cash investment from the current proprietor, a big French bank, to get things back on track. Most of the vineyards are in the Mercurey appellation. Price: $19.94 at Spec’s