Soft-Cooked Summer Squash with Onion

From food writer Emily C. Horton Makes 4 servings (about 3 cups) 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, finely diced

2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced

1½ pounds yellow summer squash, or a mix of yellow and green zucchini, thinly sliced into

¹⁄8 -inch rounds (see note)

½ teaspoon sea salt, plus an optional

¼ teaspoon sea salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chopped fresh chives or dill, for garnish

Instructions: Heat the oil in a medium saute pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, stir in the onion; cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the onion pieces are translucent and just browned on the edges. Stir in the garlic; cook for 1 to 2 minutes more.

Add the squash and season with ½ teaspoon of the salt, stirring gently to coat. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook for 45 minutes to an hour, occasionally turning the squash with a flexible spatula to baste it with the pan juices. It should be thoroughly tender and just beginning to collapse. Season with the pepper and the additional salt as needed; turn the mixture over. Serve warm, garnished with chives or dill, if using.

Note: Pale yellow crookneck squash is preferred. Small to medium-size squash work best — because they typically contain less water and fewer seeds, they will contribute more flavor and texture to the dish.

Make ahead: The entire dish can be cooked up to 4 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container.