Real Ale turns attention to the craft of distilling.
The last year has been a good one for Hill Country favorite Real Ale Brewing Co.
In the fall, the brewery deservedly was lauded for its draft-only Axis IPA and the first bottling of a Mysterium Verum release. Last month, it was ranked among the nation’s 50 largest craft breweries. Meanwhile, work is proceeding on a $7 million upgrade that will improve efficiency and expand capacity. And on Saturday, Real Ale will celebrate 21 years of making popular Texas beers such as Firemans #4, Hans’ Pils and Rio Blanco Pale Ale.
So when owner Brad Farbstein spoke with the Chronicle recently, the conversation naturally turned to … whiskey.
Real Spirits Distilling Co. is the latest passion project for Farbstein, a Houston native who acquired Real Ale Brewing from its founder in 1998. By 2013, he felt he could step back from daily operations enough to launch the new business. The following year, he secured licenses, ordered a hand-hammered copper still and started “quietly” distilling spirits and aging them for 17 to 20 months in No. 3 charred oak barrels.
The brewery contributes the foundational liquid in the form of beers Real Heavy Scotch ale and Devil’s Backbone, a Belgian-style tripel, brewed to recipe except for the hops and at a slightly cooler temperature. The result of this process is then distilled to a higher alcohol level and aged separately before being “mingled” (as opposed to “blended,” which has a specific meaning for whiskey makers) together and with a singlemalt concoction.
Similarly, Real Ale White becomes gin when distilled with 10 botanicals, including not just juniper but also coriander, lavender and bottlebrush leaves that add a lemony menthol flavor.
“The base for all of our spirits is coming from our beers,” Farbstein said.
Putting it all together is Davin Topel, previously of Utah’s High West Distillery. Farbstein says Topel brings not just experience but a creative spirit and love of the outdoors that mingles well with the Real Ale crew.
Earlier this month, the distillery debuted Texas Hill Country Signature Whiskey and Grain to Glass Gin. A special single-barrel whiskey sold out in less than two hours. Bottles, along with seasonal cocktails such as the Brad Smash with fresh lemon juice and a hibiscus simple syrup made on site, are sold exclusively at the Real Ale taproom.
Farbstein figures Real Spirits Distilling completes a pretty compelling argument for a road trip to the growing Real Ale complex, where the taproom is open Wednesdays through Sundays. A pear brandy is a possibility at the end of the year.
“Getting people out to Blanco requires a commitment,” he said. “By selling it only in the taproom, we’re trying to give people another reason to come out and visit us.”
As talk in the craft-beer community increasingly focuses on a slowdown from the strong doubledigit growth earlier this decade, Farbstein insists the distillery is not merely a product-line extension. He’s been interested in spirits for many years, he said, and craft-beer sales were still red hot when planning began.
I take him at his word. I’ve known Farbstein for nearly a decade and have always been impressed with his knowledge, his candor and his meticulous commitment to his work; Real Ale Brewing’s success speaks for itself. Given that, it’s easy to predict that Texans will enjoy Real Spirits for years to come.