Balls Out Burger
Simplicity rules menu at Irishman’s Heights joint
THE CONCEPT
A Heights madeto-order burger joint — whose name uses a steam-engine term for getting a train to achieve maximum speed — from Ian Tucker, an Irishman who moved to Houston two years ago and who still owns restaurants in Dublin.
THE SPACE
Housed in a former gas station and car wash, the counterservice restaurant seats 42 indoors and 140 on a 4,000-square-foot patio kitted out with outdoor games. There’s a walkup window outside, too, and dogs are welcome.
THE FOOD
Burgers here are a model of simplicity: 5-ounce, flattop-grilled patties, available as a single or double, made with 44 Farms beef (seasoned with cracked black pepper and Himalayan pink salt) resting in a fluffy Slow Dough Bread Co. Amish potato roll that is crisped slightly on the flattop. American cheese is the only glue, accompanied by lettuce, tomato, onion and pickles. Also on the menu: three types of fries (handcut, shoestring, sweet potato) and milkshakes.
THE DRINKS
A handful of wine and plenty of Saint Arnold beer in cans — in fact, the place’s entire beer selection comes from the Houston brewery.
THE WORD
“I think a burger should be only meat and bread. A lot of places have too many toppings,” Tucker says. “You’re masking good meat in bread with too many toppings.”
ONE MORE THING
Tucker is also planning a restaurant in Sawyer Yards called Poitin, the name of an “illegally brewed Irish whiskey.” Slated to debut in February, according to Tucker, it will offer a fusion of continental and American food: “I want to create street food at high quality and put it on a plate,” he says.
THE DETAILS
1603 N. Durham, 832844-3359; ballsoutburger. com. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.11 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays.