Houston Chronicle

Find a firefly phenomenon in the Great Smoky Mountains.

- By Andrea Sachs

It starts with a flicker of light. Two, three, four flashes follow. Minutes later, dozens of tiny yellow bulbs illuminate the forest like paparazzi hounding the Keebler elves. And then the woods go black. Show’s over — at least for the next eight to 10 seconds.

For two or three weeks in late May and early June, Great Smoky Mountains National Park pulsates with light and darkness, the beginning and end of life, and Photinus carolinus and Homo sapiens.

“Every year, I think I am prepared, and then I get blown away by it,” said Dana Soehn, a public affairs specialist at the national park, who has witnessed the natural phenomenon numerous times.

The park in eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina is home to 19 species of fireflies, including 13 that flash. Only one — the synchronou­s firefly — turns the springtime mating ritual into an incandesce­nt performanc­e that dazzles like a laser show. After lying low in a larval and pupal state for one to two years, the freshly winged males rise from the forest floor and twinkle in concert. Apparently, girl fireflies are attracted to N’Sync sparkle.

“The males are saying, ‘Pick me,’ ” a park employee named John explained during a shuttle ride to the viewing site last week. “And the females are saying, ‘Beat it. I’m busy.’ They are looking for the brightest flash.”

Synchronou­s fireflies are uncommon: Only three species inhabit North America, and most live in the Appalachia­n regions stretching from Georgia to southern Pennsylvan­ia. Congaree National Park in South Carolina typically welcomes Photuris frontalis for two weeks between mid-May and midJune. This year, the viewing season wrapped up on May 27, several days before the arrival of the Smokies population.

Great Smoky rangers have spotted the insects throughout the 522,427-acre park, but the Elkmont section near Gatlinburg, Tennessee, contains the largest concentrat­ion of synchronou­s fireflies. When the conditions are ripe for romance — no rain, dark skies, kill the moonlight — thousands of the fireflies will flirt on a verdant tract of land laced with hardwood trees and a burbling river.

“This is their last hurrah,” John said. “It is a really cool way to go out.”

Spoiler alert: The adults die after mission accomplish­ed.

The fireflies first attracted the attention of locals who lived in the park and vacationer­s who escaped the summer heat in mountain cabins. When the bulk of leases expired in 1991, the vegetation grew back, creating an ideal environmen­t for the fireflies. In 1995, the National Park Service removed the streetligh­ts; the darkness drew more fireflies to the area. In the following years, spectators would jam the small parking lot at Elkmont and crowd onto the Little River and Jakes Creek trails, treading heavily on the fireflies’ habitat. To control the madness, the park started managing the site. It closed the Elkmont lot and required guests to park at the Sugarlands Visitor Center and ride trolleys to the location seven miles away. It experiment­ed with a first-come, first-served approach, which resulted in lines that rivaled opening night of “Star Wars: The Force Awakens.” Last year, the park instituted a lottery system, distributi­ng 1,800 parking passes for vehicles holding up to six people. To determine the dates of the event, entomologi­st Becky Nichols relies on a formula that factors in the minimum and maximum air temperatur­es from March 1. She makes her prediction about eight weeks out. “I can get pretty close,” she said. This year, nearly 18,500 people applied for passes between April 25 and May 1. In addition, campers who reserve any of the 220 sites at the Elkmont campground can access the area by foot. The eight-night period started on May 30, and about 12,000 visitors experience­d the “Fireflies Live!” show through its finale.

“You had a 7 percent chance of coming here tonight,” John said on the second evening. “Congratula­tions, you beat the odds!”

At 7 p.m. on Wednesday, the trolley line was several links long. It shimmied down one side of the lot, parted at the vehicle entryway, then resumed along the grass. People carried folding lawn chairs, blankets and coolers. Two kids played hacky sack with a set of keys. A college-age girl on a beach towel dealt UNO cards to her friends. Babies in strollers napped or looked wide-eyed at the incomprehe­nsible scene.

I took my place behind a group of six adults, including an older gentleman with flowing white locks and Dickies overalls. A man passed around a tub of homemade brownies.

I wasn’t the caboose for very long; Mike Dean and Tanvia Kresse bumped me up to the penultimat­e position. During our slow march to the trolley, Mike told me he had unsuccessf­ully applied for a parking pass last year.

“I wrote it on my calendar,” the Indianapol­is resident said of his second attempt. it.”Mike knew he a $2.75 charge ap card. His plus-on miles from the p lottery this year.

“Didn’t we cha throughout the w Tanvia asked her three decades. “T our childhood.”

A few minute boarded the troll vehicles provide Gatlinburg. I gav attendant and sa wooden bench fo

A park ranger trolley prepared attraction. He tol hover in the kne He explained tha move like a wave sports stadium. A us to the other bi in the ‘hood: the emits a Cookie M that lasts for 30 t the flashbulb, wh fireflies’ signals — it wants to make connection.

“If the light go mating?” he said is eating the othe

The synchron to flicker at abou said they don’t re until 10. (They ca around 11:30.)

“If you leave b he said, “you wil Ranger John ver

I disembarke­d the Hill family, w had struck lightn twice: Last year, the matriarch of the Tennessee clan had won the lottery; this year, the daughter

“I waited all year for e had succeeded when ppeared on his credit ne, who lives about 30 park, had skipped the . hase lightning bugs whole summer?” er friend of more than This is a throwback to es after 8:30, I finally lley, one of seven ed by the town of ve a buck to an at down on a hard, for the 15-minute ride. r stationed on the d us for the upcoming old us that the fireflies ee-high-to-waist range. at they sometimes e formation at a And he introduced biolumines­cent bugs e blue ghost, which Monster-hued light to 40 seconds, and which mimics other — and not because e an OkInsect oes out, are they d. “No, the flashbulb er firefly.” nous fireflies start ut 9:30, but John really rev up all it a night at before 10,” ll make ry sad.” d with who ning scored a pass. The group of six, including two children, hauled folding chairs, chips, milk, bug spray, ginger ale and a stuffed kitten named Lylah.

“You just sit and wait on them,” advised the dad, Dickie.

Before entering the inky trail, park employees handed out squares of red cellophane and rubber bands, for covering flashlight­s and smartphone­s. Direct light can disturb the fireflies. You don’t want to be blamed for ruining the next generation, do you?

Visitors set up their gear — nice inflatable couch — along the ruddy path, which ended with a row of orange cones about three-quarters of a mile from the trail head. The scene resembled a parade route with people facing outward, at the thicket of tulip poplars, hemlocks, red oaks and maple trees. Pinpricks of red light appeared like beady mouse eyes in the woods, evidence of bushwhacke­rs braving the poison ivy for a closer

look. When scouting out a viewing spot, Becky recommende­d a quiet area with an open understory and a dark canopy. Similar to a bar, the fireflies don’t want obstacles obstructin­g their communicat­ion channels. Instead of husky frat boys and pool tables, the insects have to contend with secondgrow­th trees and boulders.

I walked a few steps in and saw a spark of light.

“One starts it, and then they all get going,” Becky said.

I had mistakenly assumed that the fireflies would switch on like floodlight­s at an evening baseball game, but the synchronic­ity was much subtler and less choreograp­hed. For eight-to-10 seconds, pops of light swirled before me: high and low, to the left and to the right, in the foreground and in the background. And then, without warning, someone would pull the plug, and the fireflies would plunge into darkness.

During this seconds-long period, the females would respond with a double flash. However, their light was too faint to see, so I used my downtime to count Mississipp­is until the males resumed their courtship.

The moon was bright, and the fireflies weren’t as outgoing as the first night. (Becky expected them to peak on the fourth evening.) I discovered a pocket of activity halfway up the trail and watched transfixed. At 11, a park employee broke the magical spell. Time to catch the trolley.

I reconnecte­d with the Hills on the return trek. The littlest member, Kennedy, was asleep in her grandfathe­r’s arms. Her mother, Whitney Johnson, was stiff from carrying her, plus itchy from bugs. Her brother, Dustin, had to catch a 7 a.m. flight back to New York. They had a 90-minute drive ahead of them, and we didn’t board the trolley till close to midnight.

I asked the family if they planned to try for a third year of synchronou­s fireflies.

They all said yes.

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