Houston Chronicle

Peska Cocina Latina

New chef emphasizes Mexican flavors; new bar entices, too

- greg.morago@chron.com twitter.com/gregmorago

THE CONCEPT

A reboot of the former Peska Seafood Culture in the Galleria area, with a new chef, Chris Loftis, and a menu that now highlights Mexican flavors while keeping a strong focus on seafood and meat.

THE SPACE

The retail marketplac­e at the entrance is gone, and the one-sided bar is now expanded to a more welcoming bar open on all sides.

THE FOOD

Loftis’ menu includes appetizers such as smoked whitefish guacamole; Gulf fried oysters with Valentina aioli, bacon and pepperonci­ni; smoked short rib empanadas; yellowfin tuna tostada; octopus a la plancha; and queso fundido. A few entree options: seared snapper with fried artichokes; ancho chile blackened redfish with lobster cream; pecan-crusted grouper with jumbo lump crab and lemon butter; coriander crusted tuna with curry corn; and grilled hanger steak with Mexican gnocchi, queso fresco and cilantro salad.

THE DRINKS

Think cocktails with a Mexican spin, such as the mezcal margarita or the tequila Old Fashioned. ONE MORE THING

Happy hour 2 to 6:30 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays means oysters on the half shell for $1.50 each; small plates priced at $6; half-price wine by the glass; and $7 cocktails.

THE DETAILS

1700 Post Oak, 713-9619229; peska.us

 ?? Dave Rossman ?? Fried pork cheek on corn purée with cilantro and carrot salad represents the focus on meat at Peska Cocina Latina.
Dave Rossman Fried pork cheek on corn purée with cilantro and carrot salad represents the focus on meat at Peska Cocina Latina.

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