Houston Chronicle

Why is Indian food so incredibly good?

- By Daniel Neman |

E verything you need to know about Indian food can be found in a single phrase in a cookbook by the otherwise reasonable Anupy Singla.

The book “Indian for Everyone” contains a recipe for Chana Aloo, a meal of curried chickpeas and potatoes. Calling the dish comforting and wholesome, she adds that it is — and this is the important phrase — “an easy dinner option.”

The recipe for Chana Aloo contains 19 ingredient­s, and two of these are complicate­d spice mixes that she suggests you make yourself. One of the spice mixes is created from six ingredient­s, the other from 17 ingredient­s.

That, to an Indian cook, is an easy dinner option.

On the other hand, and this cannot be stressed enough, it is this multiplici­ty of ingredient­s and the painstakin­g process of putting them together that makes Indian food so sublime. The dishes are built from layers upon layers of flavors, combining in an unworldly melange of complex tastes.

In other words, Indian food is worth the effort. Oh, how it is worth it.

India, a vast and multifacet­ed nation with 22 official languages and nine recognized religions, is home to more than 17 percent of the world’s total population. What that means in culinary terms is that the country is not defined by one single style of cooking.

The residents of Hyderabad, in the south, are known for their biryani — rice dishes topped with shredded meats. Punjab, in the north, is where tandoori cooking comes from, with the food cooked in hot clay ovens. Goa, on the west coast, specialize­s in fish and is influenced by the cuisine of Portugal, which once colonized it. Food in Bengal, in the east, is often cooked in mustard oil and is noted for the subtlety of its flavors.

The one thing that remains constant across the entire country is spice. Sometimes the food is hot, sometimes it is hotter and sometimes it is not hot at all, but it is always cooked with plenty of spices.

You could spend a lifetime studying Indian food and still not learn half of what there is to know about the subject. I decided to make four dishes and call it a day.

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