Houston Chronicle

Persian Pan-Fried Fish

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Makes 6 servings

It’s traditiona­l for Iranians to eat fish, a symbol of life, on the eve of their new year. The process of looking for the best fish, buying and preparing it for the feast is a tradition similar to an American’s hunt for the just right turkey on Thanksgivi­ng.

There are two popular ways of cooking fish for the New Year. One is to stuff it with fresh seasonal herbs such as cilantro, tarragon and leeks. Herbs hold a special place at the center of Iranian cuisine, especially for Nowruz. Making food without them would be unthinkabl­e, as this is the time of year when all the greens that don’t grow in winter are available again, and just in time for the celebratio­n that marks the start of spring.

Another popular way of making fish is to simply pan-fry it.

Serve with herbed rice or fresh herbs. From Washington cook Yeganeh Rezaian. Ingredient­s 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder (granulated garlic) 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/4 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 1/2 pounds thick, white-fleshed, skinned fish fillets, such as sea bass, halibut or cod 1/2 lemon or lime, plus lemon wedges for serving 1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil One-inch piece unpeeled fresh ginger root, cut crosswise into 5 slices (may substitute a good pinch of ground ginger; optional)

Instructio­ns: Whisk together the salt, pepper, garlic powder, turmeric, saffron and cinnamon in a shallow bowl.

Cut the fish into good-size pieces (4 or 5 inches long). Squeeze a few drops of juice from the lime or lemon over both sides of the fillets, so they are evenly moistened. Working with one at a time, press all sides of each fillet into the spice mixture so the fish is evenly coated. (Discard any unused spice mixture.)

Line a platter with paper towels. Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the ginger, if using, and cook for a minute or two. Add just enough pieces of fish, skinned sides first, to avoid overcrowdi­ng; pan-fry for about 5 minutes, or until golden and crisped, then use two spatulas or large forks to carefully turn over the fillets and cook for about 3 minutes, until opaque, yet moist throughout. (The ginger stays in the pan the whole time, if you are using it.

Transfer to the papertowel-lined platter to drain briefly, then serve right away, with lemon wedges.

Nutrition: Ingredient­s are too variable for a meaningful analysis.

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