Grilled Swordfish Kebabs With Golden Raisin Chimichurri

Yield: 4 servings Total time: 30 minutes

For the kebabs:

2 pounds swordfish steaks (at least 1½ inches thick), skinned and cut into 1½-inch chunks 12 bay leaves (preferably fresh)

2 lemons, halved lengthwise and then cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices, seeds removed, plus 1 whole lemon for squeezing

Coarse sea salt and ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano Extra-virgin olive oil For the golden raisin chimichurri: ½ cup golden raisins

1 cup boiling water

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, washed, shaken dry and stemmed

¼ cup stemmed fresh oregano 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or to taste

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes

1. Make the kebabs: Thread the swordfish, bay leaves and lemon slices alternately onto flat bamboo or metal skewers. Arrange in a nonreactive baking dish. Season the kebabs on all sides with salt and pepper. Squeeze the juice from the remaining lemon over them. Sprinkle with oregano and drizzle with olive oil. Turn the kebabs a few times to coat with the flavorings and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the chimichurri: Place the raisins in a heatproof mixing bowl. Pour boiling water over them and stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Let raisins soak for 15 minutes.

3. Finely chop parsley, oregano, thyme and garlic in a food processor. Gradually work in ¾ cup olive oil, sherry vinegar, lemon juice, red-pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste; the chimichurri should be highly seasoned.

4. Drain raisins well and add them to the chimichurri. Pulse the processor a few times to mix, but leave the raisins mostly whole. Transfer ¾ cup of the chimichurri to a small bowl for basting, and transfer the rest to a serving bowl.

5. Meanwhile, build a wood fire in your grill with a hot zone for searing and a medium zone for cooking. (You can do the same with charcoal. If you’re using a gas grill, place a few hardwood chunks between the Flavorizer bars or over the burners. Heat one burner on high heat and additional burners on medium heat, adjusting the heat as necessary.) Brush and oil the grill grate.

6. Arrange the kebabs over the hot fire and grill until the fish is browned and sizzling and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side, 8 to 12 minutes in all. Move kebabs to the medium zone if they start to burn. Baste with a little of the reserved chimichurri as the kebabs cook.

7. Serve the kebabs with the remaining chimichurri on the side for spooning over the fish.