Houston Chronicle

Ford Fry’s dual dining concepts open in the Heights.

- By Greg Morago STAFF WRITER greg.morago@chron.com twitter.com/gregmorago

SUPERICA THE CONCEPT

Atlanta-based restaurate­ur Ford Fry and his company’s vice president, Kevin Maxey, were raised in Texas and bring their passions for iconic Tex-Mex food to the table with this outpost of Fry’s popular Atlanta-born eatery.

THE SPACE

A simple, industrial design in the previous home of Bernadine’s features a welcome patio and a bar complete with a Felix neon sign that nods to heritage Houston Tex-Mex.

THE FOOD

For starters, there’s guacamole, queso that can be dolled up with add-ons, stringy queso fundido, nachos and tamales. Seafood fans can tuck into bold campechana made with shrimp, octopus and lump crab, and a ceviche (shrimp and snapper) tostada. Main plates include enchiladas, fajitas al carbon, steak, tacos and grilled seafood. The menu also offers chile rellenos, carnitas, Hamburgues­a Superica served with steak fries, and carne guisada with twice-fried frijoles.

THE DRINKS

The house margarita, called El Frio, uses El Jimador blanco tequila, triple sec and fresh lime juice (shaken or frozen). The Texas Star cocktail is composed of Gran Centenario Rosangel tequila, elderflowe­r liqueur and ruby red grapefruit juice. The La Paloma comes with a glass bottle of Squirt.

ONE MORE THING

Fry has already signed a lease for another new restaurant in the Heights but is staying mum on the details for now.

THE DETAILS

1801 N. Shepherd, 713-955-3215; superica.com/heights. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

LA LUCHA THE CONCEPT

Ford Fry’s homage to belt-busting Sunday dinners at the fabled San Jacinto Inn he enjoyed as a boy, built on fried chicken, biscuits and oyster indulgence­s.

THE SPACE

The former Hunky Dory restaurant has been transforme­d into Fry’s interpreta­tion of “your grandmothe­r’s living room” with a ’70s rec-room vibe, inviting bar and kick-back soundtrack. Casual and chic.

THE FOOD

Executive chef Bobby Matos (State of Grace) worked with Fry on a menu that elevates Houston dining traditions. The Pharmacy Burger is a nod to both Whataburge­r and Avalon Diner. The crispy shrimp tacos are engineered to recall Jack in the Box tacos. And the center-of-themenu fried-chicken dinner is a crispy-skin valentine to San Jacinto Inn’s famous finger-lickin’ Sunday suppers. Other intriguing options include onion dip spread with bowfin caviar and served with a mini can of Pringles; fries doused in oyster chowder; fried oysters sandwiched between mayo-slicked white bread (Mrs. Baird’s, of course); and redfish on the half shell with fireball-red pozole.

THE DRINKS

The bar can whip up a first-rate cocktail, such as Dad’s Daiquiri (a traditiona­l rum frappe that takes a kooky path with Fernet Branca and cracked pepper). There’s a nifty mezcal program and plenty of wine and champagne options.

ONE MORE THING

Don’t pass up the softserve ice cream for dessert. Yes, that’s an olive oil drizzle and saltine cracker crumble on your vanilla swirl.

THE DETAILS

1801 N. Shepherd, 713955-4765; laluchatx.com. Open 5-10 p.m. MondayThur­sday, 5-11 p.m. Friday, noon-11 p.m Saturday, noon-10 p.m. Sunday.

 ?? Photos by Karen Warren / Staff photograph­er ?? Crispy whole red snapper with tomatillo salsa, flour tortillas, black beans and white rice at Superica
Photos by Karen Warren / Staff photograph­er Crispy whole red snapper with tomatillo salsa, flour tortillas, black beans and white rice at Superica
 ??  ?? Fried-chicken dinner served with biscuits, pickles and sauces (with added half pound of fried Gulf shrimp) at La Lucha
Fried-chicken dinner served with biscuits, pickles and sauces (with added half pound of fried Gulf shrimp) at La Lucha

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