Houston Chronicle

WHERE COLLARDS MEET CRAWFISH- NO MAN'S LAND CELEBRATES BICENTENNI­AL WITH BEVY OF FESTIVALS

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They call it “No Man’s Land,” an area of Western Louisiana that was declared neutral ground by Spain and the U.S. from 1806 to 1821. The Neutral Strip, enclosed by the Arroyo Hondo and Sabine River, contained no government, no flag, and little law enforcemen­t. Left on its own, No Man’s Land drew pirates (yes, pirates!) and European settlers, Native Americans and African Americans; it was as dynamic a cultural melting pot as existed on the continent. This blend of customs, food, and music has simmered mighty well over the past 200 years, developing into a tantalizin­g place “where collards meet crawfish.” In a state known for its parties, all seven historical parishes will collaborat­e for the No Man’s Land—Becoming Louisiana Bicentenni­al Celebratio­n, with events scheduled for the next three years, the same amount of time it took Spain and America to work out terms of their treaty. The No Man’s Land opening ceremonies launch the weekend of February 15. Here are seven 2019 events you don’t want to miss.

No Man’s Land Opening Ceremonies (February 15–16)

The Fort Jesup State Historic Site in Sabine Parish will host the opening ceremonies. The flag raising ceremony will take place at 10:30 a.m., followed by plenty of opportunit­ies to explore 19th-century Louisiana through reenactmen­ts and demonstrat­ions. There’ll be local food as well as cast iron cooking demos on the open hearth and live local music. Fort Jesup is the appropriat­e site for the opening ceremonies because in 1822 Zachary Taylor located the primary western garrison here, stationing 141 officers and enlisted men to protect the new U.S. region. Opening weekend will certainly put you in the No Man’s Land mood, especially after you’ve watched the frontier skills demonstrat­ions.

Merryville Heritage Festival (March 29–30)

If you want to capture what it means to live in No Man’s Land, head to Merryville for the Merryville Heritage Festival and celebrate life along the Sabine River during the No Man’s Land era. The festival features characters played by the No Man’s Land Gang, local and regional musical acts on the festival stage, shopping, and dining at the many food booths. Take a tour of the Merryville Historical Society’s museum or ride the carnival rides on the festival midway. While you’re there visit Burk’s Log Cabin. Built in 1883, the cabin offers a glimpse of life in early Merryville.

Melrose Arts & Crafts Festival (April 6–7)

The Melrose Plantation hosts one of the largest arts and crafts celebratio­ns in all of Louisiana. The historical­ly significan­t antebellum mansion, a National Historic Landmark, was built by a free person of color, Louis Metoyer. Louis was the son of freed slave Marie Coincoin and Claude Thomas Pierre Metoyer, who raised 10 Franco-African children, the genesis of the local creole community that continues to thrive today. The plantation also exhibits the work of esteemed African American artist Clementine Hunter. The festival invites over 100 artists, photograph­ers, jewelry makers, potters, and others to participat­e. Grab some food from local restaurant­s and stroll beneath the oaks to admire and select a keepsake, and then take a tour of the historic houses and grounds.

Choctaw-Apache Annual Powwow (April 26–27)

The Choctaw-Apache were forcibly relocated from this area to San Antonio by the Spanish crown. They then moved to eastern Texas before resettling in the Neutral Strip, in what is today Sabine Parish. The tribe is represente­d by 21 families, and they practice the traditiona­l customs as they have for millennia. The Choctaw-Apache Annual Powwow is a celebratio­n of these customs and Native American culture. But this is no museum piece: guests can observe and participat­e in traditiona­l dance, learn to play stickball, sample regional corn and wild game recipes, as well as shop for native crafts. The Coushatta Powwow (June 14–15) also showcases exceptiona­l and significan­t Native American culture.

Louisiana Pirate Festival (May 2–5)

Everybody loves pirates, these days at least. Louisiana’s most famous privateer, Jean Lafitte, used to haunt the Gulf Coast, hiding out with his pirate band in the bayous surroundin­g Lake Charles. In 1957, a group of local businessme­n launched the festival to celebrate both the folklore surroundin­g Lafitte and the local culture that grew from No Man’s Land history. Today, the Louisiana Pirate Festival has become one of the state’s largest celebratio­ns, drawing more than 200,000 mateys of all ages. The weekend starts off with a boom from the cannons, as the Lake Charles citizens “defend” their land, only to see Jean Lafitte himself make the mayor walk the plank. Pirates of all ages can enjoy the festivitie­s—there are children’s activities and live music.

MayFest (May 3–4)

Vernon Parish honors the No Man’s Land spirit with MayFest, a Louey Award–winning festival that brings together homemade food and handcrafts from throughout the region. Folks gather on the courthouse lawn to dance the night away to Grammy Award winners and other musicians. During the day artists and craftspeop­le display their talents and wares along the streets while kids participat­e in a variety of hands-on activities, from the Armadillo Stampede to the Rotary Club’s Chalk-A-Block, where the sidewalks become every kid’s canvas. Start Saturday with the Leesville Lions Club Annual Pancake Breakfast; proceeds benefit the Louisiana Lions Camp for Children with Special Needs.

Beauregard Watermelon Festival (June 28-29)

Sweet, juicy Sugartown watermelon­s are the stars of the Beauregard Watermelon Festival in DeRidder, which celebrates the harvest of these special melons grown only within a 50-mile radius of the town. Enjoy several varieties of local melons at the Cutting of the Melons opening ceremony. Food and shopping are plentiful, so you’re sure to find something you like or something you just can’t live without. Dance your heart out to Louisiana Swamp Pop and enjoy other local entertainm­ent. Participat­e in the watermelon seed spitting and eating contests to test your skills and earn some cash. Visit the midway and take a spin on the carnival rides or check out the Jackpot Livestock Show, Louisiana’s largest, at the barns. The Beauregard Watermelon Festival: Louisiana Fun! Sugartown Sweet!

Sabine Freestate Festival (October 25–26)

Sabine Parish is known for many things, including Toledo Bend Lake, the best fishing lake in America. Once upon a time, Sabine was most famous for its independen­ce, as the center of the Neutral Strip in which Spain and the United States decided to settle their border disputes later and essentiall­y leave the area alone. It’s easy to imagine just how easily bandits and the like paddled to safety within the many coves. Today Sabine remains one of America’s best-loved outdoor playground­s, especially in late fall when the Sabine Freestate Festival sets up in Florien. The planners pack Western-themed shootouts, a parade, treasure hunts, and plenty of regional music into the two-day affair. America is filled with storied regions where communitie­s turned inward to create a unique culture, but few areas on earth can claim heritage borne from a land that belonged to no government. The Neutral Strip remains a piece of history that nobody believes unless they live there. Come celebrate the Louisiana Bicentenni­al in No Man’s Land, where everyone is free to party like it’s 1806 all over again, even the pirates. This post is funded in part by the Louisiana Office of Tourism, No Man’s Land Bicentenni­al Commission.

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