Our tasting panel’s recommendations for Valentine’s Day champagne.
Who: Neera Patidar, owner of Ruggles Black
Background: Patidar was born in England as the youngest of six children and landed in Texas as a child when her father moved the family first to Port Aransas and then to Houston, where he became successful in the hospitality business. She has a diversified background in marketing and international commerce but inherited a love of “creative cooking” from her mother. Patidar would eventually open Nosh Bistro in the space just north of the Southwest Freeway that became Ruggles Black in 2014, with chef Bruce Molzan running the kitchen. Her go-to wines are “big cabs” and “great bubbles.”
What: Juvé & Camps Pinot Noir Brut Rosé, an exuberant, versatile bottle of bubbles from a family-run winery in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, a small town near Barcelona. The business’ agricultural roots go back more than 200 years, but the modern winery was founded in 1921. This sparkler is made in the método tradicional, meaning a secondary, in-bottle fermentation is started by the addition of yeast and sugar. Prior to bottling, the pinot noir juice undergoes a cold-soak maceration followed by fermentation in stainless steel. The grapes, from 25-year-old vines, are estate grown.
Why: This sparkling pinot noir deftly handles the restaurant’s intensely flavored Indian-Asianinfluenced dishes. “Don’t let the deep cherry color fool you,” Patidar says. “The deep, balanced flavors are bold but not at all sweet (in a cloying way). I love the strong personality of this beautiful bottle of bubbles.” She recommends pairing it with “our Angry Shrimp, mussels, Indian-spiced salmon and the lamb flatbread.” (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate awarded a score of 91, saying it “feels like a quite good red sparkling wine” and recommends pairing with a charcuterie plate.)
Price: $12 for a glass, $30 for a bottle at Ruggles Black, 3963 Kirby