Verandah Progressive Indian Restaurant
Owners of Great W’Kana Cafe open upscale spot in posh Kirby Collection
THE CONCEPT
An upscale Indian restaurant in Upper Kirby from chef/owners Sunil and Anupama Srivastava, who are known for their work at Great W’Kana Café and W’Kana Xpress.
THE SPACE
Designed by the Srivastavas, the restaurant is a stunner — modern, curvaceous white seating juxtaposed against wood finishes and walls of textured tiles. A large, colorful mandala painting, courtesy of Anupama’s mother, Chandrika Sundaraman, graces one of the dining room’s walls, providing not just a bright focal point but a symbolic representation of the cosmos.
THE FOOD
Begin with crispy fried samosas stuffed with potatoes and peas; potato patties over stewed chickpeas; stir-fried shrimp with curry leaves and black peppers; red lentil and madras curry soup; tandoori roasted vegetable salad; and a chicken consommé poured at the table over delicate chicken dumplings. From the tandoor oven: spicy lamb chops; lamb shish kebab flavored with mint and cloves; and mustard-laced salmon. Entrees include chicken Tikka W’Kana (fenugreek-flavored chicken in chunky tomato cream); lamb stewed in caramelized onion, saffron, fennel and ginger; and Bombay fish (sea bass) with tomato, bell peppers, onion and coconut. Vegetarian options and house-made breads abound.
THE DRINKS
The 12-seat bar has a cocktail menu that embraces Indian flavors — think cardamom, saffron, betel leaf — and includes tea-based drinks. You can also get cocktails such as the Bourbon Revival, made with crème de cassis, lemon juice and simple syrup with a fresh orchid garnish. Wine and beer, too.
ONE MORE THING
Verandah’s design embraces the pancha mahabhuta — five elements, according to Hinduism, that is the basis of all creation — earth, water, fire, air and space. The owners have expressed the elements with wood-grained tiles (earth), a wall of wave-relief tiles (water), the flames of the two tandoor ovens in the kitchen (fire), double-height ceilings (air and space), and metallic tiles of copper, brass and gold that embrace Indian beliefs of movement and development.
THE DETAILS
At the Kirby Collection, 3300 Kirby, Suite 7A, 281-501-0258 or 832-886-4291; verandahrestaurant.com. Open 5-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays. Lunch and weekend brunch hours will be added in a few weeks. Paid parking is available in the building’s parking garage. Valet service is also available. Dress is business casual.