Houston Chronicle

Is it s’more? Is it a torte? It’s a s’morte!

- By Bonnie S. Benwick

Welcome to the Summer of S’mores! Or so it has been proclaimed by the media. The assessment is based on new items such as s’mores-crafted mochi ice cream pods; Starbucks Golden S’mores coffee blend with “notes” of marshmallo­w and graham and an earlier-released S’mores Frappuccin­o, natch; Dan Whalen’s puffy-jacketed “S’mores!” cookbook (Workman); also, the Target S’mores Caddy, a plastic case designed for ferrying your marshmallo­ws, graham cracker packs and 1.55ounce Hershey’s milk chocolate bars. (I am automatica­lly disqualify­ing S’mores Oreos, because the brand has lost its soul.)

Which brings us to the S’mores Torte, qualifying in our book as one-bowl baking because its ingredient­s are brought together in the same pot used to melt butter, its initial ingredient. What I am really saying is this a s’mores-related thing you will want to make, and eat until it is no more.

Now, “torte” sounds awfully highfaluti­n. But the term is accurate, because a torte is a kind of cake made with little or no flour, and its texture is denser than your typical cake. Here, the graham crackers are reduced to a fairly fine crumb, stirred into the melted-butter-and-chocolate mix with sugar, egg and the marshmallo­ws, which must be of the mini variety and fresh enough to squish between forefinger and thumb.

As you can imagine, this torte (s’morte?) smells pretty wonderful as it bakes. You must wait until it has cooled to almost room temperatur­e or risk serving portions akin to slightly grainy chocolate spoonbread, which is not a bad way to go, but out of the running, tortewise. We liked how this set and sliced up best after the torte, still in its pan, chilled in the refrigerat­or — the same method I use with batches of freshly baked brownies.

This seems like a fine thing to do with leftover bits from your campfire cookery, doesn’t it? My colleague Becky Krystal suggested gilding this lily by topping the torte with marshmallo­w fluff.

S’mores Torte

Active: 10 minutes

Total: 65 minutes, including 20 minutes of cooling time 10 to 12 servings

This cake combines the classic combinatio­n of marshmallo­w, graham cracker and melting chocolate into a rich, fudgy treat, making it a perfect vehicle for campfire-ingredient leftovers.

In testing, we found that a springform pan makes for easier cake removal.

Serve with a dollop of marshmallo­w fluff, or slightly sweetened whipped cream.

Make ahead: The cake is good when it’s barely warm, but we liked it even better when it had been chilled in the refrigerat­or (and that also makes it easier to slice).

8 tablespoon­s (1 stick) unsalted butter

3 Hershey’s milk chocolate bars (1.55 ounces each), broken into pieces ⁄3 cup sugar 2

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 large eggs, at room temperatur­e and lightly beaten

About 8 ounces plain graham crackers, crushed to crumbs (generous 2 cups)

About 3 ounces (1 ½ cups) mini

marshmallo­ws

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch springform pan or cake layer pan that’s at least 2 inches deep with cooking oil spray. Line the bottom with a round of parchment paper and then grease the surface of the paper, as well.

Place the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat; once it’s half melted, add the chocolate. Cook, stirring, until both are fully melted and the mixture is smooth and glossy. Remove from the heat.

Stir in the sugar and vanilla extract, then stir in the beaten eggs until no trace of yolk or whites remains. Add the graham cracker crumbs and marshmallo­ws, stirring until evenly distribute­d. Scrape into the cake pan, spreading the batter evenly. Bake (middle rack) for 35 minutes, until the edges are browned and set; the center should be puffed and will jiggle a bit.

Cool in the pan for 20 minutes, during which time the center of the cake will flatten out, then run a round-edged knife around the edges to loosen the cake. Let cool for an additional 15 minutes more before serving or storing.

Nutrition (based on 12 servings): Calories: 280, total fat: 14 g (saturated fat: 8 g), cholestero­l: 75 mg, sodium: 160 mg, carbohydra­tes: 38 g, dietary fiber: 0 g, sugars: 25 g, protein: 4 g. (Adapted from One-Pot Cakes: 60 Recipes for Cakes From Scratch Using a Pot, a Spoon and a Pan,” by Andrew Schloss with Ken Bookman. William Morrow, 1995.)

 ?? Stacy Zarin Goldberg / For the Washington Post ?? This S’mores Torte combines the campfire ingredient­s into an elegant dessert.
Stacy Zarin Goldberg / For the Washington Post This S’mores Torte combines the campfire ingredient­s into an elegant dessert.

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