Caponata is the perfect toast topper
Spread leverages a garden’s bounty to create flavor medley Summer Squash Caponata
My introduction to caponata, when I was a teenager, was a supermarket version from a shelf somewhere near the tinned sardines and anchovies. It came in a distinctive disc-shaped glass jar, about 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch deep. The clamped-on lid was imprinted with an ornate logo, and somewhere it said “product of Italy.”
If you turned the jar over, you could see a mosaic of stewed vegetables in an oily tomato-y sauce, a perfect portion for one. Sometimes there was a chunk of tuna in the middle, and sometimes not. The way to open it, if you didn’t have a can opener, was with a coin — a quarter worked best. Inserted correctly between the lid and the jar, it would pop the lid right off with a twist.
Usually, the mixture was eggplant, celery and carrots, but sometimes, it was more varied. Some jars contained more of an assortment of vegetables: perhaps a fava bean, a bit of cauliflower, a wedge of artichoke. The dressing was sweet and tart, and the vegetables were soft enough to spread on bread.
In truth, commercially canned caponata is nothing to sneeze at. It’s always tasty, although the oil used may not be first quality. Home-canned caponata made with extra-virgin olive oil and freshly picked vegetables is deluxe. The vinegar in the sauce makes it somewhat like a pickle or preserve, and it’s a treat to have a few pint jars in the pantry to eat out of season.
Sicily claims caponata as its own, though it seems as if every restaurant and home cook has a different variation. The island grows tons of eggplant, so it is a constant in caponata — except when it’s not. I have a Sicilian friend who makes it with artichokes. Another friend makes it with just zucchini. Some cooks use a little tomato, others a lot. Often the mix includes peppers and is a bit like ratatouille with an Italian accent.
For sweetness, most cooks add a bit of sugar; many add raisins or currants. For tartness, a splash of vinegar and a few capers go a long way. You can’t stint on the oil or be timid with the seasoning.
If possible, wait a few hours before you eat it, to allow the flavors to mellow and meld. Or better yet, leave it in the refrigerator, for a day or more. Just be sure to serve it at room temperature.
Some may denounce this summer squash version as inauthentic, but I say it’s a delicious way to use the garden’s bounty.
And to drink …
The sweet, vinegary flavors of caponata can sometimes clash with a wine, particularly those that are soft, tannic or oaky. So look for a bottle with lively acidity. From Sicily, the home of caponata, you could try either an Etna Bianco, made with the savory, saline carricante grape, or frappato, a red that is generally fresh and vibrant rather than heavy. From elsewhere in Italy, zesty whites unburdened by oak will go well, whether fianos from Campania, vermentinos from Liguria, vernaccias from San Gimignano, Soaves from Veneto or a multitude of others. If you prefer a red, barberas from Alba and Asti, especially the lessexpensive bottles, have the zestiness of a white, without much in the way of tannins. Dry rosés from Italy, or elsewhere, would be delicious as well. Eric Asimov Yield: 6 to 8 servings Total time: 1 hour
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 ½ pounds medium green zucchini,
cut into ¾-inch cubes Kosher salt and black pepper
1 ½ pounds yellow summer squash, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 large onion, diced (about 1 ½ cups) 6 celery stalks, diced (about 1 cup) Pinch of red-pepper flakes 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 3 tablespoons red- or white-wine
vinegar
2 tablespoons medium capers, rinsed, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes and drained
24 green olives, such as Castelvetrano or Cerignola, for garnish
6 hard-boiled eggs (9-minute), for
garnish
Italian parsley leaves, for garnish Basil leaves, for garnish
12 (½-inch) slices Italian or French
bread, toasted
Pour ½ inch olive oil into a large, wide skillet over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, add enough zucchini to cover bottom of pan. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Let zucchini sizzle and brown slightly. Cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Remove to a large bowl with a slotted spoon. Continue cooking zucchini and summer squash in batches, adding oil to the pan as necessary.
In the same skillet, cook the onions over medium-high heat, stirring, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add celery and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper and transfer onion mixture to bowl with zucchini.
To the bowl, add red-pepper flakes, sugar, vinegar and capers. Toss gently together. Taste and adjust, making sure the seasoning is bright, with a balanced sweetsour flavor. Leave for 10 to 15 minutes and taste again. (If time permits, let the flavors marry for an hour or more before serving. The caponata may be refrigerated for up to 2 days; bring to room temperature to serve.)
Transfer mixture to a large platter. Top with olives and hardcooked eggs, halved or quartered. Garnish with parsley and basil leaves. Serve at room temperature with toasted bread for making crostini.