Houston Chronicle

Beyond Meat is worth grilling

Vegan sausages and burger patties live up to the hype when it comes to mimicking the flavor of meat

- By Chuck Blount STAFF WRITER cblount@express-news.net

Beyond Meat, a California-based company that makes burger patties and sausages with totally vegan, non-GMO ingredient­s, started distributi­ng products in 2013. It’s now publicly traded on the Nasdaq, with shares that have exploded in value from $80 up to the current price of around $195 since May. The Beyond Burger patties, as well as a line of Beyond Sausage bratwurst and hot Italian sausages, are now available locally at Whole Foods, Sprouts and select H-E-B outlets.

With so much buzz, I had to get my hands on some Beyond products and give them a proper test. I picked up a package of both sausage varieties ($8.99 each for four links) and enough Beyond Burger ($5.99 per 8 ounces) to make a few different burger recipes and combine others to form a 1-pound block of meatloaf.

The first thing you notice, aside from the fact that it looks identical to meat, is the nutritiona­l informatio­n and ingredient­s in these products. Water is the primary ingredient, followed by a lot of oils (canola, coconut and sunflower), extracts, starches and a pea protein.

The good news is that all the products are cholestero­l-free and pack a 20-gram punch of protein with every serving. The bad news is that they don’t provide much of a caloric discount, with 270 calories per 4-ounce burger patty vs. 309 calories for 4 ounces of 80/20 ground beef. Nor does it cut back on fat, with 20 grams per 4-ounce burger patty vs. 22 grams for 4 ounces of beef.

When I opened a package, it smelled like some serious chemistry went into making them. There was a distinct odor of tire store. Fortunatel­y, it dissipated quickly.

The sausages were firm and dead-ringers for traditiona­l links. They cut cleanly, making them ideal for kabobs or a skillet dish like sausage and peppers.

I cooked them on a hot grill, and they had the same texture and cooking times as last week’s crazy sausage experiment. As a bonus, the hot oil from the links even dripped into the charcoal, creating the same sizzling smoky effect.

Both the Italian sausage and bratwurst are solid options, but the Italian sausage was something that I would definitely get again.

On the burger front, the premade patties worked fine on their own with a simple pinch of kosher salt and black pepper applied to each side before cooking on high heat, but I tricked up a few with additions such as barbecue sauce, tapioca, minced garlic, vegetarian Worcesters­hire sauce and breadcrumb­s. It made a big flavor difference. This is a product that needs a little boost.

The smoked meatloaf came out as the big winner, producing thick slices and a texture indistingu­ishable from a traditiona­l beef-based version. The meat took in plenty of smoke and even produced those charred edges around that pan that are the best part of a good meatloaf.

The final verdict: I’m a big yes on the Italian sausage and would be happy to mix up the meatloaf or some of the burgers for any party when a nonmeat option would be appreciate­d. I would also use Beyond Meat for a vegetarian burger recipe for the pure convenienc­e over a recipe that calls for black beans or another veggie mixture.

I’ll hang on as an extreme card-carrying carnivore, but options are good.

 ?? Kin Man Hui / Staff photograph­er ?? The Italian sausage and meatloaf are winners anytime, and the burgers are great options when guests would prefer to go meatless.
Kin Man Hui / Staff photograph­er The Italian sausage and meatloaf are winners anytime, and the burgers are great options when guests would prefer to go meatless.

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