Houston Chronicle

Meatballs like you haven’t seen them

- By Alison Roman

When it comes to food, I will forever favor crispy over saucy because saucy is the enemy of crispy, and crispy is the best and most pleasant thing about food. For example, I can’t stand when people squeeze lemon over my fried calamari or schnitzel, and think eggplant Parm is a waste of a crunchy piece of eggplant. (I have privately critiqued certain restaurant­s and dishes by describing them as “overwhelmi­ngly saucy” or “too sauce-forward.”)

And so if you saw the word “meatballs” in the headline and began fantasizin­g about a simmering pot of tangy tomato sauce or salty Swedish gravy, you have come to the wrong place.

Let me just come right out and say it: These meatballs are not saucy. Instead, they are lightly spiced, pan-fried with a crunchy exterior and served with fat slices of olive-oil-browned eggplant on a bed of warmed chickpeas. If that disappoint­s you, let me comfort you by mentioning that technicall­y there is a sauce, but it’s a thick, spoonable sauce made of seasoned yogurt, and it sits below (never over) the meatballs.

To further destroy your meatball fantasies, you may also notice the absence of any binding ingredient­s, such as bread crumbs, egg or dairy. OK, so really each meatball is more of a round sausage, but I’m still calling them meatballs. (“Round sausage” doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue — no pun intended.)

The good news for anyone I may have lost here is that this whole dish (except the yogurt sauce) is made in one skillet. In fact, the success of each component depends on it.

The meatballs are cooked in the pan first, so the eggplant can brown in a mixture of olive oil and leftover fat. Then the chickpeas are tossed around in whatever is left (not to crisp but to take the tinny edge off ). It’s a dish built layer by layer: The ingredient­s are cooked separately not to annoy you, but to bring the most out in each one. The result feels kind of fancy, almost restaurant­y, but still comes together in about 45 minutes.

Hopefully, by this point, I have so successful­ly distracted you with the appealing details of this one-skillet dinner that you’ve forgotten all about the lack of sauce or traditiona­l meatball ingredient­s, and you’re willing to give it a try. If so, my job here is done.

 ?? Photos by Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriot / New York Times ?? Crispy lamb meatballs with chickpeas and eggplant is made in one skillet.
Photos by Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriot / New York Times Crispy lamb meatballs with chickpeas and eggplant is made in one skillet.

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