Houston Chronicle

It’s everything but the bagel with this summer tomato tart

- By Becky Krystal From the Washington Post’s Becky Krystal; crust recipe adapted from cookbook author Elinor Klivans

At this time of year, I don’t believe there’s a wrong way to eat a tomato. But some ways feel more right than others. For me, one of those is on a bagel, with a schmear of cream cheese. The bagel should be everything, the cream cheese herbed. And the tomato? A thick, juicy, ripe slice.

The thing is, I’m pretty picky about my bagels. I wondered if I could honor the spirit of the original in an equally fun, delicious way that was enticing enough to be a star, too.

That’s where my new Everything Tomato Tart comes in. I adapted a cream cheese pie crust from cookbook author Elinor Klivans by doctoring it with a generous amount of everything spice for both texture and that signature flavor. The cream cheese means this is an especially forgiving dough that is easy to make — mere minutes in a mixer — and roll. Then it’s baked all the way through before being filled and topped. The filling is similar to a no-bake cheesecake. It features a smooth mix of cream cheese, mascarpone and whipped cream, with fresh dill and chives for an herby punch.

On top, of course, there are as many slices and types of tomatoes as your heart desires, along with a drizzle of olive oil and shower of more everything spice. Given the inspiratio­n, the tart would be a fantastic brunch centerpiec­e. The filling is light in texture but also substantia­l, so you’ll have no problem feeding a crowd with it. surface and a rolling pin. Roll the dough out to a round about 4 inches wider than the bottom of the pie pan, periodical­ly lifting and turning the dough to prevent it from sticking to the work surface. Reflour the surface and rolling pin as needed. Press the dough into the prepared pan. Trim the edge, leaving a ½-inch overhang. Tuck the overhang under itself to form a thick rim. Crimp the edge in whatever pattern you want — pinching, pressing the tines of a fork or leaving it plain. Cover and refrigerat­e the crust until it is cold and firm, 30 minutes or up to overnight.

Position rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees.

Prick the bottom of the crust all over with a fork (this is called docking). Press a piece of aluminum foil into the cold pie crust, covering the edges of the crust. Fill the foil with dried beans, metal pie weights or even sugar. Bake for 15 minutes. Carefully remove the aluminum foil and pie weights. Bake for an additional 15 to 17 minutes, until the crust is set, lightly golden and cooked through. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.

Make the filling: Arrange the sliced tomatoes on a layer of paper towels or dish towels you don’t mind staining. Sprinkle with kosher salt on both sides to help season and draw excess moisture out. Let them rest while you make the filling.

Pour the heavy whipping cream into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with balloon-whisk attachment (you may also use a hand mixer here). Beat on high speed, just until firm peaks form. Pull off the whisk attachment or the beaters out and see how the cream looks in the bowl and on the attachment. If it flops over, it needs more time; if it holds its shape, you’re set. Transfer the whipped cream to a separate bowl or container; refrigerat­e until you’re ready to use it.

Combine the cream cheese and mascarpone in the same mixer bowl (no need to wipe it out); use the mixer’s paddle attachment and beat on medium speed until smooth and well incorporat­ed. Add the lemon juice; beat (medium speed) until smooth. Stop to add the dill and chives; beat on low speed until thoroughly incorporat­ed.

Use a flexible spatula to gently fold in half the whipped cream. Lift the cream cheesemasc­arpone mixture from the bottom of the bowl over the top of the whipped cream, rotating the bowl as you work and trying not to deflate the whipped cream too much. This folding step will help lighten the cheese mixture. Fold in the remaining whipped cream. Taste, adding more lemon juice or salt until you’re happy with the flavor.

Use an offset spatula or spoon to spread the filling evenly over the cooled crust. Arrange the tomatoes in any way you like. Drizzle a little olive oil over the top and then sprinkle with the remaining 2 teaspoons of everything spice, or more to taste. The tart can be served right away, but it will firm up and be easier to slice and eat after refrigerat­ing for at least an hour. If you choose to refrigerat­e it, hold off on the olive oil and everything spice sprinkle until right before serving.

Note: To make your own everything spice, combine 2 tablespoon­s each sesame and poppy seed and 1 tablespoon each caraway seed, sea or kosher salt, dehydrated onion flakes and dehydrated garlic flakes. You will have extra, which will keep indefinite­ly in your pantry. 8 to 10 servings

Nutrition (per serving, based

on 10): Calories: 380; Total Fat: 34 g; Saturated Fat: 22 g; Cholestero­l: 103 mg; Sodium: 430 mg; Carbohydra­tes: 14 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 2 g; Protein: 5 g.

 ?? Tom McCorkle / Washington Post ??
Tom McCorkle / Washington Post

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