BOILED CRAWFISH, CAJUN CLAWS, ABBEVILLE, LA.

I have celebrated crawfish season with friends twice running at Cajun Claws in Abbeville, and twice running I have marveled that these are the best old-school, Cajun-style crawfish I have ever eaten. Huge critters, respectfully boiled so that the tails pop free with ease, forcefully seasoned but with an underlying sweetness that shines right through the savor of red-peppery heat. A final flourish of dry spice rides on top, a style that is increasingly rare here in Houston, where the garlic-buttery Vietnamese style holds sway. These are crawfish worth a journey, a potent reminder of how lucky we are to have Louisiana as a neighbor.