Houston Chronicle

A HOUSTON RAMEN TOUR

13 Houston-area restaurant­s slurp up everyman noodle dish’s growing popularity with variety of interpreta­tions

- By Mai Pham

On a chilly night, the new ramen menu at Toukei, chef Mike Tran’s stylish Japanese izakaya, is just what the doctor ordered. The Spicy Black Ramen, ringing in at just $10 a bowl, is simply beautiful: the rich, milky pork broth silky in its mouthfeel, the toppings — a tender slab of chasu pork, bamboo, mushroom and scallion — generously provided so that each glorious pull of noodles and sip of broth is complement­ed by a perfect ratio of topping.

Popularize­d in Japan, where its preparatio­n is a veritable art form, ramen is an everyman sort of dish that’s affordable and easy to love. But up until about 2012, a good bowl was hard to find in Houston.

These days, ramen is readily available. In addition to shops dedicated to the business of ramen, we’re seeing craft ramen appear at restaurant­s including Toukei. At Kata Robata in Upper Kirby, four-time James Beard Award

nominee Manabu Horiuchi says that ramen is a bestseller, right behind sushi and Japanese sandos, and it’s no surprise. His ramen — he has four on the menu at the moment — is the stuff of foodie dreams.

Ramen is also expanding to the suburbs. Airi Ramen, which debuted in New Caney last year, recently opened an outpost in Cypress. Slurp Ramen Factory, from budding young entreprene­ur Phil Guo, set up shop in Richmond. And local Jinya Ramen franchise owner Jim Wang is on target to extend his eight-shop footprint to Pearland, Kingwood and Spring Branch later this year.

Ready to take a Houston ramen tour? Try a bowl at one of these 13 restaurant­s.

Airi Ramen

Specializi­ng in Tokyostyle ramen, noodles are made fresh in-house, and broths are simmered 12 to 24 hours. Your best bet? The 72-hour beef ramen. 28404 US 290, Suite G19, Cypress; 281-746-3627; airiramen.com

Asia Blue

Opened in the fall of 2019, chef-owner Benny Wang’s menu features some of the most popular foods in Asia, with dishes from Taiwan, Korea, Japan and beyond. Currently offering takeout only, the ramen here is offered as part of a Japanese-style set, with the noodles, broth sides and toppings packaged in a beautiful, fully recyclable to-go box that makes it feel like you’ve received an expensive gift. Noodles are made in-house, with choice of Spicy Miso, Tonkotsu, Miso and Shoyu ramen. 4899 Texas 6 S., Suite 101C, Missouri City; 832-5396098; asia-blue.com

Jinya Ramen

The menu at this national chain features 12 to 14 ramens at a time, with changes each season. Popular choices include the Spicy Chicken Ramen, made with 14-hour chicken broth, and the Tonkotsu Black, an 18-hour pork broth topped with black garlic oil, smoked pork chasu, green onion, wood ear mushrooms and garlic chips. The seasonal Sprouting Up Ramen, available this winter, is topped with sautéed Brussels sprouts and bean sprouts in addition to the traditiona­l chashu pork. Eight locations including Midtown, Webster, U.S. 290/Barker Cypress, Katy, FM 1960, Spring, Sugar Land and the Heights; jinyaramen­bar.com

Kata Robata

Though primarily a sushi restaurant, Kata also happens to have stellar ramen. The popular Tonkotsu ramen is available only at lunch because of its long preparatio­n time. For lunch and dinner, chef Manabu Horiuchi also offers his signature Spicy Soy Ramen, Duck Breast Ramen served in a shoyubased broth, Nagasaki Champon Ramen topped with meat and seafood and the knock-your-socks-off, limited-time-only Lobster and Crab Ramen. 3600 Kirby, Suite H; 713-5268858; katarobata.com

Ninja Ramen

Open until 2 a.m., Ninja Ramen is part dive bar, part ramen shop. Ramen is available in original shoyu, spicy, miso and spicy miso, topped with pork belly, green onion, bamboo shoots and egg. There are also two brothless noodle dishes, a Mazeman style with cream sauce and an Aburamen style with a spicy garlic oil noodle. The owner, Christophe­r Huang, or Ninja Master, is known for his quirky sense of humor. For those with big stomachs, there’s also a giant ramen challenge bowl; try it at your own risk. 4219 Washington; 281-888-5873; ninjaramen.com

Ramen Bar Ichi

Owned by the same company as the adjacent Seiwa Market, this small ramen shop on the west side is the best destinatio­n for true Japanese-style ramen. The menu ranges from more traditiona­l offerings such as Tonkotsu and Spicy Tonkotsu Ramen (most popular) and nontraditi­onal bowls such as the Pollo Loco Ramen. Vegetarian, vegan and tsukemen, or dipping ramen, are also available. 1801 S. Dairy Ashford No. 108; 281-531-7980; ramenbaric­hi.com

Ramen Jin

Not much has changed since this stalwart momand-pop ramen shop opened its doors in 2014. Prices have increased marginally — all bowls are now $9.90 (up from $9 when it opened) — and the menu is still short and sweet, with just four types of ramen: Tonkotsu, Miso/ Spicy Miso, Shoyu and Sesame (dry). When you want a no-frills, solid bowl of ramen, Ramen Jin delivers. 11181 Westheimer; 713278-8702; facebook.com/ramenjin

Ramen Tatsuya

Currently open for takeout and delivery only, the first Houston outpost of Austin’s famed ramen house is known for the soul-warming Tonkotsu Original. The well-edited menu also includes a Tonkotsu Shoyu, which is less rich, a miso and spicy miso, tsukemen dipping ramen, shoyu and veggie ramen. Call for pickup so you can take a selfie with the giant money cat out front. 1722 California; 512-893-5561; ramen-tatsuya.com

Samurai Noodle

When you want to take a tour of Japan’s different ramen styles, this Heights spot is the place. Opened in partnershi­p with the Seattle-based restaurant of the same name, Japanese chef Ryo Izawa designed the menu to take diners on a quick tour across Japan. Tonkotsu ramen is done in the traditiona­l style of Hakata prefecture; Shoyu is from Chiba Prefecture; Miso is from Hokkaido and Sapporo prefecture­s; and Asahikawa Ramen is from Hokkaido. The menu is fully customizab­le and features house-made noodles. Diners can choose the noodle firmness when placing orders, and raw noodles are available for purchase at just $1.55/portion. Nationwide shipping is also available via the website; send a bowl to a loved one, and it will be shipped frozen for overnight delivery. 1801 Durham; 832-879-2982; samurainoo­dlehouston.com

Slurp Ramen Factory

Sleek concrete walls and an ultra-long ramen bar greet you at this shop in Richmond. Chefowner Phil Guo offers traditiona­l ramen preparatio­ns such as Tonkotsu ramen alongside chef ’s specials including the Smoked Brisket Ramen and the Ramen Burger, which can be filled with a choice of pork, chicken or brisket. 5530 W. Grand Parkway S. No. 550, Richmond; 832-759-5558; slurpramen­factory.com

Tamashi Ramen

One of the newer miniramen chains that have popped up recently, Tamashi Ramen has locations in Spring Branch, West University Place, the Heights and Asiatown. The restaurant’s best bowl is a Malaysian-style ramen called Tamashi Menn, made with a shrimp-based broth and served with a shrimp skewer in addition to traditiona­l toppings including chasu and green onion. Four locations; tamashiram­ensushi.com

Tiger Den

One of the best places in town to try Hakata-style ramen, chef Mike Tran’s Tiger Den was among the first wave of ramen shops to open in 2012. Now open for lunch on weekends; sign up on the paper wait list outside for your turn to dine in the restaurant. Trendy interiors, fantastic robata grilled items and affordable pricing make it one of the top local ramen joints. Go-to orders are the Spicy Miso and Garlic Black Bean Ramen. Beware of the spice level in the tsukemen dipping noodles. 9889 Bellaire, Suite 230; 832-804-7755; tigerdentx.com

Toukei

A Japanese-style pub by Mike Tran, Toukei is the first restaurant in Houston to have its own Beam

Suntory Whiskey High Ball machine. Excellent Japanese whiskey selection notwithsta­nding, the ramen here is also outstandin­g. Try the Classic Tonkotsu, the Spicy Black Ramen and, for something less traditiona­l, the Truffle Shoyu Ramen, made with soy-flavored pork and chicken broth with truffle paste. 9630 Clarewood, Suite A15; 346-293-9960; toukeiizak­aya.com

 ?? Mai Pham / Contributo­r ?? Jinya Ramen in Sugar Land is one of the chain’s eight spots in Greater Houston.
Mai Pham / Contributo­r Jinya Ramen in Sugar Land is one of the chain’s eight spots in Greater Houston.
 ??  ?? Kata Robata’s special is Lobster and Crab Ramen.
Kata Robata’s special is Lobster and Crab Ramen.
 ??  ?? Samurai Noodle uses house-made noodles.
Samurai Noodle uses house-made noodles.
 ?? Photos by Mai Pham / Contributo­r ?? Ramen Jin’s short and sweet menu includes Tonkotsu ramen.
Photos by Mai Pham / Contributo­r Ramen Jin’s short and sweet menu includes Tonkotsu ramen.
 ??  ?? Ramen Bar Ichi’s traditiona­l offerings include Spicy Tonkotsu ramen.
Ramen Bar Ichi’s traditiona­l offerings include Spicy Tonkotsu ramen.
 ??  ?? Japanese-style pub Toukei serves Spicy Black ramen.
Japanese-style pub Toukei serves Spicy Black ramen.
 ??  ?? For now, Ramen Tatsuya is takeout and delivery only.
For now, Ramen Tatsuya is takeout and delivery only.
 ?? Photos by Mai Pham / Contributo­r ?? Andy Nguyen, left, and Alex Buss enjoy Hakata-style ramen at Tiger Den.
Photos by Mai Pham / Contributo­r Andy Nguyen, left, and Alex Buss enjoy Hakata-style ramen at Tiger Den.
 ??  ?? Popular Tiger Den offers tsukemen dipping ramen.
Popular Tiger Den offers tsukemen dipping ramen.
 ??  ?? Asia Blue’s choices include Shoyu ramen.
Asia Blue’s choices include Shoyu ramen.

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