Houston Chronicle

Indian sabzi stars nutritious cauliflowe­r

- Anita Jaisinghan­i is the chef-owner of Pondicheri restaurant in Houston. Her website is india1948.com. Contact her at anita@pondicheri.com.

The humble cauliflowe­r’s meteoric rise from a ho-hum vegetable relegated to crudités or steamed-vegetable medleys points to its impressive health benefits. High in fiber, vitamins and antioxidan­ts, this cruciferou­s vegetable has become the darling of the plant-based world. You can grate it raw and use it in place of rice or buy a cauliflowe­r pizza crust. However, most of these preparatio­ns do not do justice to just how delicious cauliflowe­r can taste roasted or braised with spices, which is how most of us Indians like to eat it. At my restaurant, it is one of our most popular vegetables, right up there with okra.

I grew up eating tender braised cauliflowe­r sabzis, usually mildly flavored with a pinch of turmeric, ginger and chili. If tomatoes were in season, they went in and if not, maybe some minced onion went in at the start. In southern India, cauliflowe­r sabzi is often finished with freshly grated coconut. Most places of worship in India serve “langar” (a free meal at the end of pooja, a religious service), and cauliflowe­r sabzi is a popular addition. Cauliflowe­r farmers in India finely mince and braise the “jackets,” or the greens holding the head of the cauliflowe­r, where most of the nutrients lie.

Cauliflowe­r season has started in Texas, and beautiful small, purplish tight white heads with green stalks have started appearing at farmers markets. These are in stark contrast to mass-produced massive cauliflowe­r heads you often find in supermarke­ts and are well worth a trip to the market. But get there early; the good vegetables go first. Here is a preparatio­n resembling the sabzis I grew up eating in India.

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ANITA JAISINGHAN­I

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