Houston Chronicle

Sweet Baking Spice

- From Melissa Clark

Whether it’s a pumpkin pie spice, German lebkucheng­ewurz or the British mixed spice, a sweet baking spice blend predominan­tly flavored with warming, fragrant notes of cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg or mace is a staple in American and European culinary culture.

This version adds a jolt of white pepper for heat, along with the deep perfume of cardamom.

You can use a teaspoon or two in pies (apple, pumpkin and beyond), fruit and nut cakes and tortes, and all manner of cookies (especially shortbread).

Or knead some into sweet breads such as challah and brioche.

Smaller amounts are wonderful on hot chocolate and rice pudding, and the blend will add depth to homemade ice cream when steeped in the custard before freezing.

2 (2-inch/5-gram) cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces 1 tablespoon/8 grams

green cardamom pods 1 whole nutmeg (2 grams) ¾ teaspoon/1 gram whole

allspice berries ½ teaspoon/3 grams

white peppercorn­s

Instructio­ns: Place a small skillet over medium heat.

Add the spices and toast, stirring, until fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside to cool.

Using a spice grinder, clean coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, grind the cooled spices until fine.

If you like, you can strain the mix through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any coarse bits, but this is optional. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Yield: ¼ cup

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