Houston Chronicle

Za’atar

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Za’atar is the name for both a traditiona­l Middle Eastern seasoning blend and the pungent green herb that gives the blend its intense, savory character.

The hardy herb, which grows wild, tastes like a combinatio­n of oregano, marjoram, summer savory and thyme — all of which can be used as substitute­s if dried za’atar isn’t available.

As with all spice blends, recipes vary widely depending on the region and the cook, but most include ground sumac berries for acidity; toasted sesame seeds for their rich, earthy notes; and a little salt.

This version, adapted from Lior Lev Sercarz of La Boîte, plays it fairly classic, but don’t let that stop you from experiment­ing. “Adding nigella seeds or rosemary isn’t traditiona­l, but it’s a fun twist,” he said.

Za’atar can be used in marinades for grilled or roasted poultry or meats, mixed into dips, salads and egg dishes or set on the table to be added as a bright, herbaceous condiment.

1 tablespoon/9 grams sesame

seeds, preferably unhulled 3 tablespoon­s/5 grams dried

za’atar (see tip that follows) 1 tablespoon/10 grams crushed

or ground sumac

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

Instructio­ns: Place a small skillet over medium heat.

Add the sesame seeds to the skillet and toast, stirring, until fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes.

Pour into a small bowl and set aside to cool.

Using a spice grinder, clean coffee grinder or mortar and pestle, grind the za’atar leaves with the sumac and salt.

Add to the bowl with toasted sesame and mix well.

Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Tip: If you don’t have dried za’atar, use a combinatio­n of 2 tablespoon­s/3 grams dried marjoram, 1 tablespoon­s/2 grams dried thyme and 2 tablespoon­s/6 grams dried oregano.

Yield: 1⁄3 cup

Adapted from Lior Lev Sercarz

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