Five Spice

At once musky and sweet, with a pronounced kick, five spice is traditionally made from equal parts cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds, star anise and peppercorns (usually Sichuan or white). But it’s not uncommon to find cooks sneaking in a little tangerine peel or ginger, depending on where they live and what they’re planning to prepare, said Kian Lam Kho, author of “Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees: Essential Techniques of Authentic Chinese Cooking” (Clarkson Potter, 2015).

His version hews to the traditional five ingredients and uses Sichuan peppercorns to give the mix a characteristically numbing, tingly sensation on the tongue known as mala. Because Sichuan peppercorns vary a lot in quality, he recommends ordering from a good source, like the Mala Market, one of the few companies importing untreated peppercorns direct from growers.

Once the spices are toasted and mixed, the blend can be used both whole (simmered into stews, braises and soups) and ground (added to roasted meats such as duck, lamb and pork belly, vegetables and seafood). Ground five spice is also often served mixed with salt and used as a piquant condiment to accompany barbecue dishes.

1 (2-inch/5-gram) piece cassia bark or cinnamon stick, broken into pieces

1½ teaspoons/5 grams fennel

seeds

5 whole star anise pods (5 grams) 3½ teaspoons/5 grams Sichuan

peppercorns

2 teaspoons/5 grams whole cloves

Instructions: Place a small skillet over medium heat. Add spices and toast, stirring, until fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside to cool. If using the whole spices for a braise, they are ready to go.

To make the spices into a powder, use a spice grinder, clean coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to grind the spices until fine. If you like, you can strain the mix through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any coarse bits, but this is optional. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Yield: ¼ cup ground spice blend Adapted from Kian Lam Kho