Houston Chronicle

Summer sipper: an elegant pink from Provence

- By Dale Robertson CORRESPOND­ENT

2020 AIX Rosé

19.1 (9.1 for quality, 9 for value)

Our tasters: Gave it a unanimous recommenda­tion with a high score of 9.3 and six scores of at least 9. “Tart red cherries, strawberri­es and raspberrie­s. So much flavor and elegance for what looks like just a light, pleasant wine.”

The wine: Made from sustainabl­y farmed fruit, it’s a blend of 60 percent grenache, 20 percent cinsault and 20 percent syrah. The grapes were direct-pressed, then cold-soaked and chilled to 46 degrees Fahrenheit. De-stemming precedes pressing and low-temperatur­e maceration. Fermentati­on in temperatur­e-controlled stainless-steel tanks follows for 12 to 16 days. Two to three weeks of “aging,” also in steel tanks, comes next before bottling. Alcohol: 12.5 percent.

Winemaker notes: “A fragrant and well-balanced wine, its hypnotizin­g salmon pink color reveals a fruity freshness. The nose is delightful­ly fragrant with delicate balance and crisp acidity. Enjoy the notes of soft, ripe summer fruits, particular­ly watermelon and strawberri­es.”

Critical acclaim: Vinous awarded a score of 90, praising the wine’s “pale, shimmering orange” color and calling it “bright and focused on the nose, displaying fresh red berry, nectarine and orange zest aromas, with floral and mineral overtones. Strawberry and nectarine flavors show good depth and a bracing jolt of juicy acidity. The floral note repeats on the lively finish, which lingers with very good tenacity. Pair with salad, grilled fish, poultry and Asian foods, especially sushi and curry dishes.”

The winery: Maison Saint Aix, founded 130 years ago and located about an hour northeast of Aix-en-Provence at 1,400 feet above sea level, has more than 200 of its own acres under vine, making it one of the largest domains in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. Provence’s famous mistral wind whips through the neighborho­od frequently, keeping the grape clusters dry and, hence, healthy. Price: $17.59 at Spec’s. Widely available elsewhere.

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2020 AIX Rosé

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