GOLDEN BEET BORSCHT

Borscht is a name for many different types of soup found across Ukraine, Russia and, more broadly, Eastern Europe. The ones we know best in the United States are often made from red beets. But this version uses underappreciated golden beets, which are earthier and less sugary than their red cousins. Seasoned with coriander and caraway seeds, it makes a savory, wintry soup. Carrots add a touch of sweetness, while a dash of apple cider vinegar gives it just the right zip. A generous dollop of sour cream or yogurt makes the broth nice and silky. This soup gets better as it sits, so, if you can, make it a day or two ahead of serving. Time: 50 minutes

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

• 3 medium leeks, white and light green parts diced (about 2½ cups), or use white onion

• 1 large celery stalk, diced

• 4 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced

• ¾ teaspoon ground coriander

• ½ teaspoon caraway seeds

• 1½ pounds medium golden beets, peeled and grated or shredded (about 6 cups)

• ½ pound medium carrots, peeled and grated or shredded (about 1½ cups)

• 2 teaspoons fine sea or table salt, plus more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 5 thyme sprigs

• 6 cups vegetable stock

• ½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, dill or parsley, leaves and tender stems, plus more for serving

• 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste

• 1 lemon

• Plain sour cream or whole-milk yogurt, for serving

Instructions: In a large soup pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add leeks and celery, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, coriander and caraway, and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Add beets, carrots, 2 teaspoons salt, several grinds of pepper and thyme. Stir in stock and bring to a simmer.

Cook over medium-low heat, partly covered, until vegetables are very tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in cilantro and vinegar, and squeeze in the juice from half of the lemon. Taste and add more salt, pepper and vinegar, as needed.

Cut the remaining lemon half into wedges. To serve, ladle into soup bowls and garnish with more cilantro, a dollop of yogurt and a lemon wedge.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings