PARMESAN CABBAGE SOUP

This warming, nourishing soup, thickened with rice, is full of soft strands of green cabbage. Parmesan is used here in two ways: The rinds are simmered in with the broth, and the cheese is grated and sprinkled on top, adding complexity and body. If you like a kick, you can increase the red pepper flakes, or leave them out entirely for a supremely gentle broth. Add a squeeze of lemon right at the end if you like your soup on the tart side. Time: 40 minutes

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 2 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

• 3 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated

• 1⁄8 teaspoon red pepper flakes, plus more for serving (optional)

• 1 small head of green cabbage (about 1¼ pounds), cored and coarsely chopped (about 9 cups)

• 1½ teaspoons fine sea or table salt, plus more to taste

• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

• 2 quarts vegetable or chicken stock

• 1 cup long-grain rice

• 5 thyme sprigs

• 2 Parmesan rinds, or use another 2 tablespoons grated cheese

• 1 lemon

• ¼ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

• 1 cup chopped fresh dill or cilantro, or a combination

Instructions: In a stock pot or large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat.

Add leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden, 5 to 7 minutes.

Stir in garlic and red pepper flakes (if using), and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add cabbage, salt and pepper, and cook until cabbage wilts slightly and begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes.

Stir in stock, rice and thyme.

If using the Parmesan rinds, add them now, and bring everything to a simmer.

Cook, partly covered, over medium-low heat until cabbage and rice are very tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

Discard thyme sprigs and Parmesan rinds. Using a Microplane or other fine grater, grate in the zest from the lemon. Stir in grated Parmesan and dill.

Halve the lemon and squeeze in the juice from half of it.

Cut the remaining lemon half into wedges for serving. Taste soup and add more salt and pepper, if needed. To serve, ladle into soup bowls, and garnish with more grated cheese, a lemon wedge and more red-pepper flakes, if you like.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings