4 restaurants worth a Mardi Gras detour
It’s Mardi Gras festivities that will lure countless people over the next two weeks to Galveston, where beads, parades and entertainment will take over the coastal city.
But if you lose patience in the bumper-to-bumper traffic along Interstate 45 or want to avoid the impossible-to-book tables on the island, there are some stellar places to eat on the drive between Houston and Galveston. In fact, all four of the recommended spots are among the Chronicle’s top 100 restaurants.
Killen’s BBQ
Ronnie Killen’s mastery of craft barbecue, which he helped pave the way for in Houston a decade ago, is a Texas destination. His original smoked-meat palace in Pearland (there are two other locations in The Woodlands and Cypress) serves up burnt ends, jalapeño-andcheese sausage, smoked turkey and sides like creamed corn that are worth a detour. Whether you go for hits like the beef ribs or more creative dishes such as brisket pizza, there’s no going wrong. 3613 E. Broadway; killensbarbecue.com
Viola & Agnes Neo-Soul Cafe
While this isn’t the spot for a quick in-and-out meal (there’s a sign that reads: “If you are in a hurry, this café might not be the best choice”), it’s worth the wait. The funky, BYOB gem is a facsimile of any number of favorites you’d find in New Orleans’ Bywater neighborhood. A cup of gumbo teeming with an entire chicken thigh, sausage, okra and crab legs swims in a chestnutcolored roux that tastes like it’s been gently stirred and simmered for hours. Chef Aaron Davis’ slow Creole soul food is a big hit on Sunday during brunch where crisp fried chicken is paired with downy-soft pecandotted waffles. 3659 NASA Road 1, Seabrook; neosoulfood.org
Th Prsrv
It’s a commitment to sit down for a 15-course tasting menu, but there’s nothing quite like Th Prsrv, where Indigenous American-inspired dishes and Thai cuisine take center stage. Modernist chef David Skinner partnered with James Beard winner Benchawan Jabthong Painter for this eccentric experience set in a dining room decorated like a rainforest. A meal may start with a dish of black beans laced with corn “butter” paired with smoked salmon that nods to Skinner’s Choctaw heritage. The surprises continue with Jabthong Painter’s Thai dishes, like seasonal mushrooms with red ant eggs. Even if you’re not going to Galveston, this restaurant is worth taking a separate trip. 709 Harris, Kemah; thprsrv.com
Pier 6 Seafood & Oyster House
Pier 6 is often buzzing with a packed patio filled with customers slurping oysters, sipping Rosé and savoring the waterfront views. The San Leon restaurant is an extension of owner Raz Halili’s oyster business, which means some of the freshest bivalves are a must-order here.
Chef Joe Cervantez, a longtime alum of Brennan’s in Houston, knows his way around seafood, whether it’s a fried seafood platter or a lobster roll that reminds you of summer. If you want to extend your stay, there are waterside condos owned by the Halili family available for overnight stays. 113 Sixth, San Leon; pier6seafood.com